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- Jack Daniel's 12 Year Batch 02 Tennessee Whiskey Review & a Brief Exploration of the Nuance of Batch to Batch Variation
"Good things don't happen by coincidence. Every dream carries with it certain risks, especially the risk of failure." -Arnold Schwarzenegger Just as dawn brings each of us a new opportunity to greet each day, with each batch of well-aged whiskey, master distiller Chris Fletcher carries the powerful possibility—and burden—to attempt to take the Jack Daniel's brand to new heights. While these double-digit age statement whiskeys certainly don't need any help selling themselves these days, I want to take some time to discuss the subtle choices that have catapulted Jack Daniel's back into favor with the whiskey connoisseur. With legendary innovation at the forefront of this latest push, we saw releases like the 2020 special release rye, an exceptionally finished American single malt, barrel picks galore, and a twice barreled rye all garner immense praise. The fact that Chris has chosen to go the route of assigning batch numbers to these yearly releases highlights the fact that he is aware that there will be subtle nuance each time he goes to blend these releases. Although he likely doesn't assign himself the unrealistic expectation of always marching towards better and better final products with each year of experience he tallies with the company, you would have to expect that that's the aspiration, right? We are all capable of reinventing ourselves, building upon past experiences to offer something new to the world, but when you're working with a consistent distillate like what comes off the six giant copper column stills of the Jack Daniel distillery, you've got to trust the nuance of oak maturation and be willing to flex your blending prowess. Dependability... I first began discussing this concept when I wrote my review of this year's Jack Daniel's 10 year batch 03 release. In the evolving whiskey world, we are seeing more demand for nuance and less excitement for consistency. Blending a once-per-year batch gives Fletcher plenty of opportunity to work to satisfy the shifting tides of a whiskey market in tumult. So which way will batch 2 of the 12 year go? In true Amongst the Whiskey fashion, let's dive deep into what's inside! Company on Label: Jack Daniel Distillery Whiskey Type: Tennessee Whiskey Mash Bill Percentages: 80% corn, 12% malted barley, and 8% rye Proof: 107° Age: 12 years Further identification: Batch 02 is displayed on the front label of this release which was released in February of 2024 at an MSRP of $95 Nose: First impression: all the maple sugar you can fit in your nostrils. It enters there but sticks in the chest in comfortable swirls. Tarragon, vanilla, and black pepper follow like a lightshow just getting started. Shifting to one nostril evokes the aroma of sea salt and vinegar potato chips. In general, the feel in the nose is buttery but not oily—just rather silky and sweet, with the maple tones dominating the most. It summons a deep memory of maple-glazed Hostess Donettes. Recrudescing into the nose after a few sips offers plum, butterscotch, and cherry skins. Soft breadiness lingers the longest as the remaining whiskey in the glass fades into nothingness. A resurgence of creamy tones leaves me in bliss as white chocolate mousse, Philadelphia cheesecake, and a sweet Oreo cookie fill the mind with ease. Deep inhales offer vintage whiskey tones like butterscotch and a kiss of earthy clay. Late in the glass, I find a cityscape oddity caught on a passing whiff that reminded me of walking past a laundromat on Mission Hill in Boston, the linen tones effusing their aromas in a wave of warmth. The empty glass smells of tiramisu and leather. Palate: Oh! Cherry leads the way in quite a pleasant surprise. It's a nostalgic cherry coke out at the movies kind of vibe. I probably snuck in during this aroma-induced memory, but that's beside the point. The maple tones from the nose are candied on the tongue. I feel surrounded by my toothsome theater snacks now; Mansfield maple drops, buttered popcorn, and Goetze old-fashioned caramel creams are all at the ready. Dang, this is nice. Another sip offers cool, squishy marshmallow with a chocolate coating that immediately reminds me of a vanilla charleston chew. Letting some air in through a sip of this amplifies banana cream pudding, which is subtle and silky. Slight tannic tones tied to blackberries on the vine follow through on the linger. Sipping near the bottom of the glass builds in delicate spice, like a bit of cinnamon that has been muddled into a luxardo cherry, vermouth, angostura bitters, and grenadine. My last sip is a bittersweet end to a delectable dram. It shows off a sweet cherry shirley temple and a medium finish of crème brûlée and buttery, toasted bread. Yum. TL;DR: Rich, clear tones that depart from the Jack norm but should still resonate with fans Rating: 4/5 (Really good; I want one of these on my shelf.) Putting this next to batch 1 of the 12 year release—which I thought was the lesser of the two releases from 2023 compared to the 10 year—I can see a marked improvement on the nose and palate. This year's offering (batch 2) is much more refined, nuanced, and sweet without being cloying. It's richer, deeper, and ultimately more satisfying. Fans of Jack Daniel's will find a lot to love in this bottle. NICK ANDERSON With nearly a decade of sipping experience, Nick Anderson brings a well-calibrated palate to his profound passion for the whiskey industry. Beginning in Irish whiskey before expanding into bourbon, rye, and beyond, he has long been taking the ephemeral observation of unspoken enjoyment and translating it into meaningful reviews. He is the owner and primary long-winded whiskey writer for AmongstTheWhiskey.com, and he hopes you find resonance in the patient conveyance of an honest whiskey review.
- Kings County Empire Rye Review - How New York Distilleries are Breathing Life into the Rye Renaissance
Close your eyes and imagine with me for a moment... Fields of blue-hued rye, shimmering in the dancing wind, mimicking the ocean waves. Yes! Fields of rippling rye! It’s a sight to behold, and New York has turned this visual poetry into liquid form with their Empire Rye whiskey. Contrary, perhaps, to popular belief, Empire Rye is not a strain of rye, and boy, let me save you the trouble of researching rye varieties. It’s a rabbit hole! But if Empire Rye isn’t a strain of the robust grain, why is New York the only state producing Empire Rye whiskey? Where Kentucky is known for bourbon, and Tennessee is known for “sour mash,” then let New York be known for Empire Rye, the whiskey style of New York. Or so was the thought when a group of New York distilleries, notably Coppersea Distilling, Kings County Distillery, Van Brunt Stillhouse, Finger Lakes Distilling, and Black Button Distilling, joined forces in 2015 to create New York State’s own distilled spirit category. In the first minutes of the documentary Fire, Water & Grain: The Story of Empire Rye, Christopher Briar, chief blender and distiller at Coppersea Distilling, states, “Empire Rye arose out of the community.” And if you’re a seasoned (or even incoming) whiskey appreciator, you know that the sense of community is fiercely embraced in the whiskey world. The documentary is captivating and jam-packed with rich history and knowledge. I highly encourage you to check it out. But, for those eager enough to learn a bit more about Empire Rye through the written word, I’ve provided a rundown on this revived whiskey category. Yes, revived! Read on! Although not legally binding, rigorous rules must be followed to uphold the integrity of this distinct and precise style of whiskey, and they’re rather specific—75% of the mash bill must be New York grain, distilled to no more than 160 proof, and aged a minimum of two years in charred, new oak barrels at no more than 115 proof at the time of entry. These guidelines are an extension of the New York Farm Distillery Act of 2007, and distillers who follow them hold the title and stamp of Empire Rye. The attention to detail is an homage to the pre-prohibition style of New York-style rye whiskey but with enough creative freedom to allow each distillery to shine. So, who else would I look to than the oldest distillery in New York to explore this distinctly New York-style whiskey? Kings County Distillery, located in Brooklyn, is New York's premier craft distillery and one that's been on my radar for years. Their 2020 Bottled in Bond (Batch 9) was my first introduction and the reason I'm a fan (it seems my favorite whiskey reviewer may be a fan, too!). I recently connected some errant dots—after sipping a single barrel pick of Kings County from Liquor Junction—to what I consider to be “goodness, this is good whiskey." Kings County falls right in line with my affinity for local grain, a focus on terroir, and the biggest one out of this trifecta: the distilling method used—pot still. Unfortunately, Kings County has yet to distribute to my state (I’m in Illinois, by the way, ahem…). Thankfully, Seelsbach’s features a slew of craft distilleries, and Kings County is one of them, where I purchased my bottle of Empire Rye in 2023. The multiple award-winning Empire Rye Batch 7, released in 2023, is the last batch not to be barreled at cask strength. According to King County’s website: After evaluating our inventory of Empire Rye in preparation for this year’s annual blend, the blending team determined that the bulk of our Rye inventory had matured—and concentrated—in ways that resembled many of our best cask-strength bourbon offerings. As such, beginning with this eighth batch of our Empire Rye—our first with a three-year age statement—our annual releases will be bottled at barrel strength. This has me wondering how these two would compare. A head-to-head review for another time (if Batch 8 can be procured!). For now, let’s taste Kings County’s homage to pre-prohibition New York rye whiskey! Company on Label: Kings County Distillery Whiskey Type: Empire Rye / Straight Rye Whiskey Mash Bill Percentages: 80% New York rye, 20% English malted barley Proof: 102° Age: 2 years (a blend of 2.9 - 4.9 year barrels) Further identification: This is the 2023 annual release of Kings County Empire Rye; Batch 7 is aimed to articulate the inherent complexity of New York-grown Danko rye Nose: Immediate creaminess, as it should be. This is pot still whiskey, after all! Buttery sweet rolls and the slightest crack of black pepper come in next, like that last bite of bread before you finish Sunday supper. A deeper exploration provides notes of cotton candy grapes, under-steeped black tea, and a whiff of pine needles on a damp forest floor. Wow, I really love this nose. Time to sip. What wonders one sip does! Returning to the nose are sweet summer grape skins, specks of vanilla bean, and honey butter melding together. It reminds me a little bit of Clynelish 14, except this nose is all lights and Broadway compared to the vast and rolling seaside of Clynelish. Late in the glass, I get warmed Hawaiian rolls resting on wine-stained white napkins. The empty glass takes me to the edge of a forest, a trampled mud path with smashed sweet berries leading into a sunny meadow and a savory roast beef sandwich in hand to eat. Palate: As silky as the nose. Waves of vanilla and butterscotch cover the tongue before tea notes come in to balance out the sweetness. A pepper tingle is present on the finish. A second sip ushers in more of those creamy notes, vanilla and honey drizzled over spiced grape skins. This is a close-your-eyes-with-your-face-to-the-sky kind of sip while shadows of puffy white clouds blink behind your eyelids, passing over warm rays of the sun. The finish brings in that wonderful barrel funk I love about Kings County, a damp oak sweeping in for a long craft pot still finish. I regrettably say goodbye with a final sip, crumbs falling off a spiced carrot cake and remnants of melted butter on the plate with a whiff of pine and the slightest drying from the soft oak finish. TL;DR: a casual and comfortable sip with fine dining details, this is the borough of ryes Rating: 4.5/5 (Really good; I want one of these on my shelf.) The high standards required to craft Empire Rye whiskey have resulted in a distinctive, well-crafted, phenomenal rye out of Kings County. My taste buds are at a standing ovation, begging for multiple encores. I adore this whiskey. I want more of this whiskey. I can’t wait to explore this category further. JES SMYTH With what started as a genuine curiosity for the “water of life,” fiction writer and published author Jes Smyth has nurtured her enthusiasm for whiskey ever since. From learning the vast history of whiskey making to celebrating the passion of the industry, she tastes each sip with intention and purpose while expressing the intricacies of whiskey in a relatable and heartfelt way. She is thrilled to be a contributing writer for AmongstTheWhiskey.com and hopes her words will resonate with those ready to explore the beautiful world of whiskey.
- Fort Hamilton New York "Hearts of Oak Militia" Bourbon Review
Imagine my excitement: another New York craft whiskey featuring local Hudson Valley grains under a cool bottling name with some interesting historical context. Certainly, my intrigue has been piqued at this point for an up-and-coming whiskey brand. I have the chance to review this bottle today thanks to a hand-me-down that came from a little someone who didn't have use for it any longer. I'm always glad to try a new distillery and will be going into this with an open mind, as I always do. Before we get into what's inside the bottle, let's talk a moment about the brand. From the single barrel bourbon press release in April of this year, we get the following story: Alex Clark, who co-founded Fort Hamilton alongside his wife Amy Grindeland, comments: “This is a classic bourbon for bourbon lovers with a nod to our home of New York. As our Fort Hamilton Single Barrel NY Rye comes of age, with batch 14 released this year at 5 years old, it was time to extend our hospitality into bourbon with a Single Barrel Bourbon made from all NY grain. Fort Hamilton Single Barrel Bourbon is a spirit born of that same independent, revolutionary spirit and is built for the bourbon enthusiast and is true to our New York roots.” As for the name itself, Fort Hamilton is a nod to the historic Brooklyn site, named after Alexander Hamilton and his military background. There's some interesting history to be read up on there, if you're into that sort of thing. If you're just here for the whiskey, scroll on; I've got a review for you! Company on Label: Bottled by Alex Clark Spirits in Brooklyn (NY source undisclosed) Whiskey Type: Bourbon Whiskey Mash Bill Percentages: 85% NY corn, 10% NY rye, 5% NY malted barley Proof: 95° Age: 4.5 years Further identification: This is single barrel # 40 which was put into a 53 gallon char 3 barrel at the maximum allowable proof of 125; bottles are available now at an MSRP of $55 Nose: Red, white, and blue salt water taffy and Sugar Daddy milk caramel pop notes lead the way for me. It's bright, like the rest of the candy shop is ready to follow suit in its synthetic saccharine swing. Lemonheads, jawbreakers, rock candy—you name the sugary snack—it's bubbling up right now. Bit-O-Honey anyone? Beyond that, a touch of black pepper singes the nose upon diving too deep. Holistically, it's a bit flat and ultimately fairly youthful, like a lot of whiskey from the northeast can be. Returning my nose to the glass after a sip reveals a slightly savory, slightly medicinal undercurrent that is barely even perceptible. There is just nothing to this whiskey. I think it's a recipe that did not stand up to being proofed down this far. Nosing late in the glass offers a touch of earthiness that also comes across as bland and flat. The empty glass offers a kiss of milk chocolate and plastic candy wrappers littered across an asphalt street. Palate: My first sip is surprisingly unsweet, given all the candy shop vibes from the nose. A hint of caramel is all that really registers on the tongue. Another sip gives off some light graininess, hay, and grass. Aerating the sip a bit reveals some of the synthetic sucrose from the nose. The linger offers some bleach-white printer paper. Sipping late into the glass manages to build up a little black pepper spice, a little note that may play well into the bartender's mixology mindset. On my last sip, unmitigated ethanol tingles the tongue without imparting any flavor. The finish is short and quite drying. TL;DR: This was not good neat; perhaps it could find use in a smooth cocktail Rating: 2/5 (Not good... Doesn't please my palate.) I would love to give this brand another chance and explore their rye, as that's where I think a younger, New York grain-forward whiskey can really shine. It's clear that their ownership is well-educated and has their heart in the right place, so I hope there are better releases on the horizon for this brand. That said, this particular bourbon is certainly not one for the whiskey enthusiast. But as a crowd-pleasing, introductory, smooth sipper? I'm sure this will find a home, but that home is just not my own, unfortunately. Thank you to Jes Smyth for sharing this bottle with me for the purpose of being able to give it a review—before also giving it away.
- Chattanooga Fall 2019 Bottled in Bond Bourbon: A Collaborative Review with Author Jes Smyth
Chattanooga, a name synonymous with craft, has been curating interesting whiskies since 2011 when Tim Piersant decided it was time to bring "Whiskey to the People". Fellow long-winded whiskey writer Jes Smyth seems to share in that mission, as she has continued to share really interesting craft distilleries with the broader whiskey community. It is into her bottle of Chattanooga bottled in bond, the fall 2019 vintage, which we will be diving into today. Jes will also be joining me for another installment of a collaboration review - one in which the notes of both writers are sprinkled in throughout. I'd like to thank her for sharing a sample for the purpose of today's review as well as for her exceptional photography skills on display here. Exploring the depth of a brand which values experimentation can be extremely rewarding. Where the big players can lean in on a recipe handed down for hundreds of years, new distillers often have something to prove. It's for this reason the Chattanooga brand has so much depth. Two distillery locations and just about all the custom distilling equipment the world has to offer means head distiller Tiana Saul has a lot of levers to pull. With 15 distillery employees on her team, it is no surprise that the brand has continued to innovate in the whiskey world. From the standard—which is anything but standard—to the spectacular, you can find unique grains, solera blending, infusions, barrel finishes, and malt experiments that have defined a category of their own. This kind of profundity only happens when distillers are willing to take risks for the sake of quality over quantity. While this might mean that some releases aren't meant for everyone, I for one am glad to see some waver as compared to the consistent column still throughput that has become all too common. To be considered a bottled in bond bourbon, all the barrels that went into the blend have to have been filled in a single distilling season. The fall 2019 vintage calls out the season during which the barrels were filled with new-make distillate. For bottled in bond designation purposes, there are only two distilling seasons: spring runs from January through June, and fall is comprised of July through December. The Chattanooga team blended a wide selection of bourbon mash bills, each comprised of at least 25% specialty malted grains, a nod to their Tennessee high malt style we mentioned before. Chattanooga calls this result "an innovative approach to one of our industry’s most time-honored quality standards - showcasing depth and complexity that is greater than the sum of its parts." We hope the same is true of this collaborative review! Jes, well known in the whiskey community as @gigglesnsips, is also the self-published author of two books, including the recently released Dream for a Second. Her writing skills clearly carry over well to the whiskey world for those patient enough to explore her carefully crafted captions she posts on Instagram. Jes' notes will be interspersed throughout this review in the color of her sweater above. In an effort to better serve the colorblind, I've also decided to italicize her words throughout. Now let's dive in and explore another craft whiskey to see if this is a release you want on your shelf! Company on Label: Chattanooga Whiskey Whiskey Type: Straight Bourbon Whiskey Mash Bill Percentages: 46% SB091 + toast, 18% SB091, 9% B005 + toast, 9% B005, 9% SB055 + toast, 9% SB055; (it's complicated...) Proof: 100° Age: 4 years Further identification: This is the Fall 2019 Vintage which was released in September 2023 from a batch size of 10-12 barrels; it has since sold out, but was available for a time at an MSRP of $52.99 Nose: On first lifting the glass, I find elderflower, lemon snickerdoodle, and an earthy musk, like sun-warmed bark left out to decay. I'm reminded of the candy you find at the bottom of a forgotten Halloween pail. There's a smooshed tootsie roll, a partially opened box of strawberry nerds, and a few stray milk duds, all hanging out, wondering where you've been. It's bright, proofy, and bold, which leads to a little nose blindness. It takes a few turns of air to get deeper into the nose; there's a sharpness. As that comes to pass, I find unbelievably sweet candied tones, like sweet tarts and tart cherry gummies. It reminds me distinctly of some of the older bottlings of Michter's 10 year bourbon. Delicate rye spice swirls in the depths. The slightest hint of an over ripened banana drifts in, followed by whipped lemon custard pie with a buttery graham cracker crust. The earthiness continues late in the glass as wet clay tones sneak in. Oh my, the chocolate tones that just erupted due to a soft breeze coming across my glass—that's some wonderful, oily depth. Time for a taste! Returning my nose and pulling out deep inhales shows off linen and crème brûlée. Creaminess resumes in a welcome wave. Absent is any sense of wariness. After my first sip, the nose is a buffet of chocolate desserts overflowing with chocolate pastry cream. As the glass nears its departure time, my minds eye conjures the sweet treat of an orange creamsicle being handed out of the ice cream truck window. This whole medley is lovely. The empty glass smells like a multitude of potpourri thrift shop finds; vintage clothing rack aromas, confectioners sugar, nutmeg, and pizza dough all dance in the nose. Palate: Mmm! Strawberries and cream blast across the tip of the tongue before a sweet vanilla granola bar settles into perfect comfort. For Jes: silky strawberry sweetness and bursts of lemon. Another sip is a touch tingly and cool, like a bite of sugar-free orange sherbet off a wooden spoon. Creamy chocolate skirts across my tongue, like the chocolate frosting sometimes found on vanilla pound cake. This is a "don't spoil your dinner," but you're likely to anyway, kind of treat. My last sip is a sweet treat like non-synthetic, old-school nerds candy. The finish is short but sweet, with nothing to complain about as an unchewed vanilla tootsie roll mulls about the mouth. The finish is warm, with hints of spice and the slightest whiff of tobacco. A light breadiness and distinct chocolate note fills the rest of the space between the comfortable sweets. The combination offers a clear nod to Pirouline wafers. Overall, I found this to be quite enjoyable, like drifting away into a comfortable conversation with someone you cherish. TL;DR: A sweet, approachable, welcoming whiskey from Chattanooga Rating: 4/5 (Really good; I want one of these on my shelf.) Altogether, this is an easy-going glass well suited for a warm day with a subtle breeze and swirling ladybugs plinking against cabin screens. Jes calls this "a pour I want to nestle in between summer and fall, or perhaps winter and spring, the in-between that returns as often as the change in seasons." Craft whiskey has been on a roll lately. Comparing this to my previous sip of Cedar Ridge bottled-in-bond rye, I'd give the nod to the Iowa distillery. While both pours are certainly in the same league, I am looking for a little more gumption to really be enamored with this dram. Nitpicking aside, this is a whiskey well worthy of praise for its sweet sipping craft character. Nicely done, Chatt.
- Redwood Empire Foggy Burl Single Malt Whiskey Review & Bonus Notes from Author Jes Smyth
American single malt whiskey releases continue to burst onto the scene at an alarming rate. Perhaps it is in a rush to beat the proposed definitions for ASM, or perhaps there are market signals suggesting it could be the next hot thing behind the great bourbon boom we have witnessed over the last 6 years. But what is American single malt to begin with? Well, because that proposed definition has not yet been put in place, it remains unclear. In a recent Gear Patrol article, Johnny Brayson summarizes a clear answer to this question well: As it stands now, before government intervention, the definition of American single-malt whiskey is pretty straightforward but also unenforceable. The generally accepted definition is a whiskey that’s distilled at a single distillery in America from 100% malted barley. But because there is no official classification, a whiskey could technically label itself an American single malt even without meeting these criteria, so long as it met the existing guideline for American malt whiskey that calls for at least 51% malted barley in the mash bill. Obviously, having these posers in the market is a problem for distillers of true American single malts looking to elevate the spirit. While final definitions are still being tweaked, it is clear that there is a strong demand for clarity in this category. Countless whiskey writers, distillers, and industry experts have added comments for the ratification of the new liquor category. I could not find a comment from Redwood Empire at the time of writing, but one such comment comes from Ryan Ciuchta, Head Blender at Kings County Distillery. He offers a response that echoes the sentiment of many of the distilleries, saying: As a producer of American Single Malt Whiskey in the U.S., I stand with the American Single Malt Whiskey Commission and more than 100 of my fellow distillers across America in supporting the creation of a new Standard of Identity for American Single Malt. Recognizing this category will serve to greatly benefit American distillers, the whiskey industry at large, and most importantly consumers. I fully align with the Commission’s petition and and comments in response to NPRM No. 213 and urge TTB to ratify this new category as swiftly as possible. Enter Redwood Empire with their own take on American single malt: Foggy Burl. The muse here is an interesting burly tree from the coastal Redwood Parks in California, as is tradition for their whiskey releases. They also produce rye, bourbon, and a bou-rye whiskey blend. The company self-identifies as a craft distillery while also sourcing and blending whiskeys from Kentucky and Indiana to complement their California distillate. Founded in 2015 by Derek Benham and master distiller Jeff Duckhorn, Redwood Empire is more than just a whiskey company; they are preservationists too. For every bottle sold, they commit to planting a tree through non-profit partnerships, helping to keep the legacy of old-growth forests alive for generations to come. As their own production ramps up and well-aged stocks become available for blending, expect to see more and more of their whiskeys center around the 100% grain-to-glass Redwood Empire distillate. Before we get into the whiskey, I'd like to thank Jes Smyth, ace author of Time for Once and the soon-to-be-released Dream for a Second, for introducing me to Redwood Empire's latest releases. While I had previously tried all of their offerings back in November of 2021, I had not had a chance to explore the cask strength bottles yet, nor their foray into single malt. Jes, known in the whiskey community as @gigglesnsips, not only shared enough whiskey for me to be able to review the lineup on my own, but also offered to include her own writing on the whiskey at hand! I've been meaning to collaborate with Jes for a long time now, as I've always respected her palate, patience, and passionate writing style. As neither of us would describe ourselves as single malt experts, both preferring bourbon and rye, I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to work together to pick apart the nuance of a growing whiskey category for big producers and craft distilleries alike. Look for Jes' notes interspersed below written in turquoise to match her sweater. On to the whiskey! Company on Label: Redwood Empire Distilling Whiskey Type: American Single Malt Mash Bill Percentages: 100% malted barley Proof: 94° Age: NAS Further identification: This 27 barrel blend of 7 different malts represents batch 001 of Redwood Empire's single malt whiskey offering, available at an MSRP of $99.99 Nose: Wow, is that a chocolate frosted donut sitting atop a glass of Irish whiskey? Yum. Whoppers Malted Milk Balls flood my senses from the get-go. A sweet, oily feeling invades the nose as I take a deep breath in. Sifting through that chocolatey tone that has moved towards a more granular texture like hot chocolate powder I find a glass that is earthy and vegetal. Lightly seared green pepper sits atop a simmering pool of melted butter. Some distance from the glass offers dried honeycomb and field grasses waving in a light summer breeze with sun warmed strawberries in the air. Wow, long inhales are delicate and graceful like a classy presentation of tiramisu. A swirl of the glass unlocks nutmeg, resinous ponderosa pine, cumin, and undulating sage. Caramel and milk chocolate show up at the end, reminding me this blend favors some of those classic bourbon notes. It's a light set of aromas, but verdant, again earthy, and all roped together in a twisted up cotton sheet. Time for a sip! Returning from a sip its all those cool coffee aromas, oh my. I feel like I'm in a really hip coffee shop - damnit EVERYONE is wearing a beanie in here; why did I wear a beanie today?! Can I get a large black pour over please? Oh you made it two hours ago? Yeah I'll take it iced, sure. My final sniff deep in the glen moves me back indoors to a tin box my Dad used to own filled with his old stamp collection. Woah, raspberry tones snap the mind back into reality. Chocolate remains the champion of the glass. The glencairn that has run dry offers notes of dry walnuts and Haitian legumes. The empty glen holds beach fire smoke as a salty breeze lifts off the ocean waves. This burl is certainly making my senses twirl. Let's see if the palate offers a similar one-two-sip. Palate: Upon first letting the liquid pass the lips, the tiramisu description from the nose rings perfectly true on the tongue. Okay. Milk chocolate, you're absolutely right there at the beginning before honey and caramel enter in. Black pepper and oak tannins show up relatively soon after, making the first sip land slightly hot and dry for the proof. The mouthfeel is slightly oily with delicate Christmas spices and tons of sweet chocolate frosting tones offering their song and dance. A second swirl and sip offers gooey caramel swirls and milk chocolate that drip onto a freshly weeded vegetable garden moist from a furious ten second downpour. Taste again and you'll find savory tones one might find in a nicely marbled prosciutto. It's a creamy dram with balanced sweetness; force me to describe that linger and I'm going to tell you it is a tootsie roll through and through. Damn those tootsie rolls, that's a notable weakness in my normally-impervious sweet tooth forcefield due to the nostalgia of throwing them out to parade-watchers when I would march in the Plymouth, MA 4th of July parade back in the day. The last sip is the sweetest of the three: chocolate, toffee, honey, and a jolt of pepper. The palate is similar to the nose, a fun little fox trot sip. At the final taste, the multitude of flavors that came before all coalesce in a cacophonous, less-than-coordinated consonance. The finish is on the shorter end with espresso beans and a hint of smoke poking through. TL;DR: Chocolate for days on this one; it's simple, but quite delicious with fun surprises along the way Rating: 3/5 (Decent. I can go either way on it.) Fans of Irish whiskey will find a lot to love in this bottle. This could very well serve as a solid gateway for bourbon drinkers to explore the American single malt category. My only complaint is that it is, for the most part, a bit of a one-trick pony. It has a small wheel of flavors, but it does everything on that wheel really well. It's not going to be one of those impossibly long and complex whiskeys that you might sit with for several hours and continue to find nuance; nonetheless, it is certainly an enjoyable pour. With nostalgic thoughts being provoked through the experience, this is a release that I'm certainly glad to have a bottle to share. Any new bottle from Redwood Empire is an instant buy for me if I don't have it yet! I'm certainly grateful Jes chose to share this one with me. It can't score any higher just due to its simplicity, but I think this is a whiskey many will enjoy, as I did! In case you missed the reviews of the cask strength releases, I'll link them below.
- A Revered Legacy Reborn: How Liberty Pole is Reviving Old Monongahela Rye Whiskey (and What it Tastes Like!)
PRESS RELEASE Washington, PA 5/7/2024—Distilled in the heart of the Monongahela (ma-NONG-ga-HEE-la) Valley of western Pennsylvania, a region steeped in the rich heritage of rye whiskey craftsmanship, comes a tribute to tradition and innovation. Today, we proudly announce the arrival of “Old Monongahela Full Proof Rye Whiskey,” a testament to the time-honored and once world-famous Monongahela Rye style reintroduced to modern whiskey drinkers. Based on a storied recipe beloved for centuries, our “Old Monongahela Full Proof Rye Whiskey” pays homage to its historical roots while embracing the essence of contemporary distillation. At the core of its character lies a high rye mash bill made with 74% total rye, composed of 61% Pennsylvania grown rye and 13% malted rye. This distinctive blend is further enriched with 13% wheat and 13% malted barley, resulting in a classic style of pot distilled Pennsylvania rye whiskey. What sets our “Old Monongahela Full Proof Rye Whiskey” apart is not only its recipe but also its craftsmanship. After 8 years of focusing exclusively on fine tuning our pot distilled whiskey, we honor the tradition of Monongahela Rye by sweet mashing and double pot distilling each batch. The process of pot distillation is essential and ensures the preservation of those herbal, spice, and fruity grain flavors in a rich, viscous and flavor forward whiskey. Following this traditional distillation process, the spirit is placed into 53-gallon barrels made from local Appalachian oak by the West Virginia Great Barrel Company at a low barrel entry of 108 proof. This low entry proof guards against astringency that can occur in high barrel proof whiskeys while extracting those dark leather and caramel notes that we want to be front and center in our whiskeys. The inaugural release of “Old Monongahela Full Proof Rye Whiskey” marks a milestone in our journey, showcasing a blend of six barrels ranging from 3.5 to 4.5 years old. Bottled at a proof of 108, mirroring its barrel entry proof, this expression captures the true essence of Monongahela Rye, promising a sensory experience that transcends time and tradition. “We are thrilled to introduce ‘Old Monongahela Full Proof Rye Whiskey’ to enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike,” says Jim Hough, Co-Founder of Liberty Pole Spirits. “With every bottle, we invite you to embark on a journey through history, savoring the legacy of Monongahela Rye while embracing the spirit of innovation that defines our craft.” This release will be available at the distillery and for shipping to PA addresses on May 17th for $64 for a 750mL bottle. “Old Monongahela Full Proof Rye Whiskey” invites discerning palates to indulge in a taste of tradition reborn. Join us in raising a glass to the timeless allure of Monongahela Rye, reborn for a new era of appreciation. For more information, please visit libertypolespirits.com or contact Jim Hough at jim@mingocreekcraftdistillers.com About Liberty Pole Spirits Liberty Pole Spirits is an 8-year-old family-owned distillery dedicated to crafting extraordinary whiskeys that celebrate tradition, innovation, and the rich heritage of the Monongahela Valley. With a commitment to quality and a passion for craftsmanship, we strive to create exceptional pot distilled whiskeys not often found in the American whiskey category. Liberty Pole whiskeys will also be available for shipping to 40+ states through our partnership with Big Thirst in just a few short weeks. This was a project I have been looking forward to since I first caught word of it from the Hough family. I've always loved the Old Monongahela rye whiskey style after getting to try some revered examples from a bygone era. Prohibition all but destroyed the category, but it's craft distilleries like Liberty Pole, rekindling some of the old low-and-slow processes, that give me hope for the category to be reborn in a meaningful way. Wondering if this whiskey tastes any good? Care for the perspective of someone who has tasted the old stuff? Well, you're in luck, as I'm glad to have a bottle here before me for exploration. This was provided to me by Jim Hough for the purposes of giving this a review with no strings attached. Per my editorial policy, this has no bearing on my final rating. Let's dive in, shall we? Company on Label: Liberty Pole Spirits (Mingo Creek Distillers) Whiskey Type: Pennsylvania Straight Rye Whiskey Mash Bill Percentages: 74% rye (61% PA rye and 13% malted rye), 13% wheat, and 13% malted barley Proof: 108° Age: 3.5 years (a blend of 3.5-4.5 year barrels) Further identification: This is batch # D24, the first ever release of this bottling, available now at an MSRP of $64 Nose: Light earthy clay, wax, paper, and well-aged whiskey aromas do well to honor the vintage scents I have stored deep in my mind. The mash bill has been perfectly mellowed by the wood interactions you would expect from the Appalachian oak they used. I find it doesn't have a ton of volume, but what it does produce is enjoyable in the nose. On subsequent inhalations, I find a lemon satin crème bar. With time and patience, the nose further improves in depth and approachability. Late in the glass chocolate raspberry icebox cake swings in with a distinct sweetness. Graham cracker and just a sprinkle of sugar give this exceptional depth for the patient observer. The empty glass smells of a verdant forest floor, leather-bound books, and breakfast doilies littered with confectionery treats. Palate: My first sip offers juicy red fruit like raspberry, plum, and a hint of nougat on the back end. It's distinctly sweet, with subtle undulations of balsam fir, black tea, allspice, and good wood influence. Another sip offers terroir-lead sweet funk, and I'm quite happy for it. The palate begins to sing an octave higher, with those floral and citrus tones just starting to vibrate in excitement. It tingles on the tongue as I close my eyes in appreciation. Lemon biscotti, pressed flower petals, and that vintage clay note tie everything together really nicely. Strawberry shortcake tones sit wonderfully in the linger. My last sip is zesty and pervasive—the perfect embodiment of Pennsylvania straight rye whiskey. I find lemon curd mousse, egg whites, and a touch of toffee. The finish is where this finds its shine; it's long, subtle, and sweet with clay, caramel, and custard notes just shimmering in old school beauty. TL;DR: A damn good representation of the Old Monongahela style; citrusy rye for days Rating: 4.5/5 (Really good; I want one of these on my shelf.) Liberty Pole is going to make a splash with this one. While I didn't find the brackish river of Alaska, the salmon being heated over an open flame with lemon, dill, and garlic that Sam Thompson 11 year Old Monongahela pure rye offered me, I really do appreciate the attention to detail with what went into making this whiskey. The end result is something I'll likely be shouting from the rooftops about for some time. What do you think? Time to chase this down?
- Cedar Ridge Bottled-in-Bond Straight Rye Whiskey - A Pocket-Sized Review of Release 001
Where do you start when you want to get to know a new distillery? Their flagship product? Their bourbon? Their rye? Their vodka? Their gin? For me, and the generous soul who shared this sip with me, the answer lies in bond. Bottled-in-bond. A simple recipe that has been followed since the Act was first introduced in 1897, producers must meet the following criteria for their product to be considered bonded: The entirety of the whiskey composition must have been distilled at a single distillery (no blending from out of house!), during a single distillation season (half year interval, spring vs fall), at a proof no higher than 160. The whiskey must have entered into a new, charred oak container (typically a barrel) at no higher than 125 proof and have remained in that container for a minimum of 4 years. Bottling proof is to be an industry standard 100 proof and the exterior of the bottle must list the distillery where it was produced. The bottled in bond designation on the label is therefore a testament to the fact that the distillery took all these standardized measures and followed them to a tee. It would only make sense, therefore, for this to be a great representation of what a distillery is capable of in a single distillation season. Evaluating bottled in bond expressions from different distilleries puts everyone on an even playing field, ultimately letting the nuance of the whiskey making process shine for those who take care to do things right. Will Cedar Ridge rye sing in the glass? Let's find out. Company on Label: Cedar Ridge Whiskey Type: Straight Rye Whiskey Mash Bill Percentages: 85% malted rye, 12% corn, and 3% malted barley Proof: 100° Age: 4 years Further identification: This is release 001 of the small batch bottled in bond rye from Cedar Ridge; a sample from bottle 1292 was generously provided by Jes Smyth; the latest batches can be found for around a $45 MSRP Nose: Lemon hard candy leaps out of the glass upon first lifting it to my nose. Warm pine bark, silly nilly pink vanilla cotton candy, and a touch of the ever-present underlying Cedar Ridge funk. After a long rest, level, silky vanilla tones swirl in sweet waves. Black pepper, allspice, grenadine, and light maple sugar all develop in a rather reserved fashion, like they're hiding from the nose under a heavy blanket. Time for a sip! Returning from a sip offers wonderful oily copper-tinged esters bopping around. I find the ones that contribute more creamy and delicate fruity tones, like ethyl lactate and ethyl butyrate. The stills at Cedar Ridge have left a lot of good character here, and the maturation has perfectly melded the original mash bill into something approachable and delectable. In the waning moments of the glass, the subtle barrel funk returns with little else, especially no sharp edges or complaints. The empty glass smells of warm, buttery salted pretzels. Palate: Ooh! Much like the nose led, I immediately get that distinct Perle di Sole lemon hard candy. It's puffy, fluffy, and light in the mouth. Delicate—just like the cotton candy parallel drawn from the depths of the aroma. Another sip... and by golly, wouldn't you know it... creamy vanilla! This is proving to be a masterclass in consistency between the nose and palate. Visions of Vermont maple syrup, canned peaches, and a savory generality one might find in a boutique deli all invade the mind on the thought-provoking linger. I picture this sipping perfectly from the comfort of a cozy cabin in Vermont while the snow piles up outside. Its lightness sticks in the mind, urging the observer towards subsequent sips with the promise of more of that fleeting flavor. Sipping through late in the glass offers hints of strawberry daiquiri and a kiss of lime. Wild mint and bergamot offer subtle complexity for the patient observer. My last sip is the bittersweet end, as beets, earthy raspberry leaf tea, and a kiss of strawberry mint finish out a wonderful sipping experience. The finish is long but tenuous, with a whisper of chocolate. TL;DR: A subtle, well-blended rye; a masterclass in synchronization between nose and palate Rating: 4/5 (Really good; I want one of these on my shelf.) I really enjoyed this pour. Juxtaposed next to some other craft distilleries and big-name blenders, this continues to shine ahead of a lot of the competition. I hope they have kept up the consistency with this one as the years of experience Murphy Quint and team have under belt continue to tally. I'm looking forward to trying more from Cedar Ridge in the years to come. Long live craft whiskey!
- 2024 Michter's Barrel Strength Rye Review - How Low Barrel Entry Proof & 18 Month Air Seasoning Come Together to Craft Highly Sippable Whiskey
Low barrel entry proof, once commonplace in the earliest stages of American whiskey, is all but completely foregone in an era where maximizing profits and efficiency trump quality. Enter Michter's distillery, at 103 proof, to be exact. Modern regulations, first introduced in 1962, mandated that straight whiskeys not be entered into the barrel above 125 proof. This was an increase from the post-prohibition era, which had a rule that read barrel entry proof was to be "not more than 110 and not less than 80 proof." Despite 125 becoming the near-de facto standard across the industry due to this being the most cost-effective aging method, Michter's chooses to enter at 103 proof. This ultimately does give some credence to their bottle labeling, which reads, "Distilled in small batches according to the Michter's pre-Revolutionary War quality standards dating back to 1753." More than just marketing, this is a motion for quality, as there is no denying it is a costly business decision that the brand has ultimately stuck to since Joe Magliocco rekindled distillation under the old distillery name in 2003. Lower barrel entry proof means more water at the start of the aging process. Water interacts differently with wood than whiskey does, so for that reason alone, you are going to get a different final flavor. On a recent tour of Michter's Shively distillery , Katherine O'Nan, Director of Forecasting, Planning & Blending, mentioned the neat tidbit that in order to get to Michter's typical bottling proof (not the case for the whiskey under review today), water must be added. Instead of watering down those oak-infused molecules with a larger volume of flavorless water, more of the original aged whiskey remains undiluted thanks to the lower final proof of the aged spirit. When Michter's specs out their barrels at the cooperage, they ask for the wood to be open-air seasoned for a minimum of 18 months. Open-air seasoning is what coopers will do with their oak before it gets shaped into staves for barrel making. In its simplest form, it is just leaving the wood out on racks with space in between each board so that it is exposed to air on all sides. This wood is left out in the elements to, in essence, partially decay. This decaying process helps to strip out the harsher tannins you've likely tasted if you've ever tasted some rushed, young, crap whiskey. Michter's doesn't want you to have that experience. While the industry 'standard' (I'll use that loosely, as there's nobody defining this presently) is 12 months, Michter's again opts for a slightly more expensive production method, all in the name of quality. There's been plenty of science backing up that decision in this space, but very few distilleries will take the punch to the bottom line for that incremental whiskey win. Michter's has also chosen to go as long as 3 years (that's 36 months for those who suck at math) for some of their special releases, like Bomberger's . You will find no shortage of Michter's reviews on my website . They produce consistently great whiskey, perhaps due to the factors above, or because of their filtration process we didn't fully get into , or quite possibly just because they have some of the best and brightest people making good whiskey decisions. Decisions that aren't necessarily driven by the desire for dollars but by a commitment to producing a quality product. I'm not saying every single barrel or bottling is a home run; I've found plenty of middle-of-the-road whiskey in a bottle bearing the Michter's name, but when the recipe is good, you've got a pretty darn good shot at dependable success. With a brand new release of Michter's barrel strength rye upon us for the first time since 2022, I'm excited to see how this stacks up. Where might this one land on the rating scale? Let's dive in and find out! Company on Label: Michter's Distillery Whiskey Type: Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey Mash Bill Percentages: Undisclosed (minimum 51% rye) Proof: 111° Age: NAS Further identification: Barrel No 24B0809 is listed on the label wrapped around the front of the neck of the bottle; there is a "bottled by Michter's Distillery" distinction listed on the back label, though I'm certain they distill and aged it all themselves after sampling some straight from the barrel last week Nose: Bright sweet tart candy instantly jumps into the mind upon lifting the glass to the nose. Deeper inhales produce graham cracker, sweet raisin, fig, and apricot undertones before a big splash of lemon hard candy greets the senses. The lemon theme pervades the mind as parallels to a sweet hot toddy begin to cause a comfort to creep across the shoulders. Bold woodshop aromas make oak a prominent piece of this glass. Returning from a few sips, I find vanilla has begun to dominate a silky, refined, creamy nose-feel. The well-rested glass offers a touch of super-sweet maple syrup. Once the glencairn is relinquished of its whiskey, I smell dark molasses, brown sugar, and graham cracker in undulant waves. Palate: Upon first letting the liquid beyond the lips, one finds a wave of fruit: dark, sticky, juicy, tannic fruit. Macerated black raspberry, luxardo cherry, fig, and plum all come across syrupy on the tongue. Further sips dance back into candyland, presenting a sweet, genteel whiskey with notes of dark salted caramel, plum, and red currant. The mouthfeel is undoubtedly treacly and saccharine with a long lingering viscous coating all across the top of the tongue. There's notably little spice, making this a clear bourbon drinker's rye. My last sip offers flashes of nilla wafers, blackberry tea, and soft cinnamon. The finish is unending, sticky, and unbelievably honeyed. A kiss of hibiscus and grenadine give me something to remember this by. TL;DR: Delicate and undeniably sweet whiskey - this is a bourbon drinkers rye Rating: 3.5/5 ( Decent. I can go either way on this. ) While this isn't a release that is going to be topping my charts, it's still an undeniably delicious bottle I'm glad to have on my shelf. I much preferred the 2023 release of their 10 year rye that I also reviewed , which was ultimately used as a quality marker for how I arrived at the score above. For reference the 10 year rye earned a 5/5. As always, the opinions expressed here are my own , and are in no way influenced by any of the wonderful friends I have made in the whiskey industry through the years. Let me know down in the comments if you'll be hunting this one down!
- Heaven Hill Heritage Collection 18 Year Bourbon Review and Necessary Comparisons to the Proximal 17 Year Release
Distilled by the legendary late Parker Beam, this year's Heritage Collection release is all about Bernheim. Barrels were filled on December 29th, 2005, from a mash bill of 78% corn, 10% rye, and 12% malted barley, this whiskey would spend the next 18 years in rickhouse 1I at the Bernheim location. Often credited by the Shapira's as one of the saving graces of the distillery's rebirth from the literal ashes of the 1996 distillery fire, Bernheim has played an integral role in the distillery's success since its purchase in 1999. Heaven Hill describes the lore of this location on their website, saying: At the historic intersection of 17th Street and Breckenridge Street in downtown Louisville sits Heaven Hill's Bernheim Distillery: the world’s largest independent, family-owned Bourbon distillery, producing 1,300 barrels a day. As Heaven Hill's recovery continued, the Shapira's weighed the benefits of building a new distillery or buying an existing plant. Either way, Shapira wanted Heaven Hill to return to distilling its own goods. In 1999, United Distillers, owner of the Bernheim Distillery, contacted Heaven Hill about a possible sale of their plant. Heaven Hill decided to go for it and the sale closed later that year. Parker Beam set about redesigning the facilities, including adding copper—the ideal metal for removing sulfurous notes from whiskey. Beam believed that adding even more copper to the existing stainless steel and copper stills would yield distillate as clean tasting as that made in Bardstown prior to the fire. So, he had each of its two doublers packed with copper mesh to increase important contact with the whiskey. "That was such a cool distillery at the time, fully automated and streamlined," Downs said. "Moving from the antiquated system we had in Bardstown to that modern system was like riding on a rocket ship to the moon." To the moon indeed. Now one of the biggest players in American whiskey, Heaven Hill aims to continue raising the bar of bourbon with their limited edition offerings as more of their 10+ million barrels filled come of age. Ready to dive into everything there is to know about this 18 year bourbon? Let's go! Company on Label: Heaven Hill Whiskey Type: Bourbon Mash Bill Percentages: 78% Corn, 10% Rye, 12% Malted Barley Proof: 120° Age: 18 years Further identification: This is the 2024 release of the Heritage Collection which is a small batch bourbon comprised of exclusively Bernheim whiskey aged on the 3rd floor of rickhouse 1I; the whiskey inside was distilled 12/27/2005 and bottles are becoming available now at an MSRP of $300 Nose: Upon lifting the well-rested glass to my nose, I find a distinct barrel funk, which is to be expected from a release carrying this high of an age statement. Delicate brown sugar cookies, nougat, and leather dance in the nostrils. Deep inhales carry considerable heat and spice. Nutmeg, tarragon, hay, and black pepper all bubble to the surface during my exploration. Dry, sun-scorched earth tingles in the nose when diving too deep. Woodshop aromas swing in next as I find myself slowly descending a lofty ladder of space and scent. While this bottle started a little potent, zesty, and spicy, a little air time has done wonders to create a comfortable space to rest my nose. With patient observation, hints of jasmine, molasses, amber honey, vanilla, and bergamot can be dug up in soft puffs of complexity. Marshmallow aromas are delicate and ephemeral. Time for a sip. Returning the nose to the glass offers bright effervescence alongside graham cracker, confectioners sugar, and marshmallow tones. There is a distinct underlying funk that continues to be pervasive throughout. Roasted chicory root aromas offer wonderful depth late in the glass. The empty glencairn smells of a forest floor in springtime and Reese's peanut butter cups. Palate: My first sip is powerful, moving, and potent, with cherry skins leading before raisin, plum, raspberry, and a distinct buttery fatiness. The lingering mouthfeel is a wonderful combination of sweet, salty, and savory, like a crème brûlée with foie gras. Another sip illustrates a side of Heaven Hill we don't often see: red currant jam, dark peach, cranberry, and dark, tart amarena cherry all dance wonderfully on the tongue. There is a classic Heaven Hill vanilla backbone, which is to be expected. Sipping late in the glass offers the tingly mouthfeel that one would expect from the introductory spice levels, as it remains quite comfortable in the mouth all throughout. My goodness, late in the glass is really where this starts to shine. Despite some drying characteristics, the vanilla bean, caramelized sugar, sweet root beer, and light roast coffee flavors that can be picked apart late in the glass are well worth the price of admission for me. Delicate hints of hazelnut and walnut stimulate the mind during the undulating linger. My last sip offers hard root beer candy and black tea, a wonderful conclusion to an ever-evolving glass. TL;DR: Marvelously balanced and complex bourbon; a nonpareil of blending prowess Rating: 5/5 (Just wow. One of my favorites.) The Heaven Hill team continues to prove they have some masterclass whiskey blending skills with this release. I thoroughly enjoyed every moment of my three separate tastings and would wholeheartedly recommend this bourbon to anyone seeking high-quality, ultra-aged bourbon with the means to afford a $300 bottle. While I have already explored a surprising volume of my bottle, given the cost and rarity of securing a backup, I am going to start savoring this on special occasions with good company from here on out. Kudos to Heaven Hill for continuing to elevate the whiskey game with their heritage collection releases. I look forward to the next! Bonus Comparisons to the 2022 Release Heaven Hill Heritage Collection 17 Year Bourbon I may be a little spoiled here. Nose: Both glasses are rich and earthy on the nose, though they have distinctly different characters, so don't go into one expecting the other. I find the 17 year has a touch more wood tones, and it reminds me of an arts-and-crafts department a bit. The 17 year is funkier, more like vintage Heaven Hill to me. The 18 year is more on the sweet end, with marshmallow and some delicate fruit tones underlying. I might argue the 18 has more complexity, but it takes more effort to find. I like the nose of the 18 better now that it has opened up. Palate: Sipping each, I find more vanilla on the 17 year and more fruit on the 18 year. Both exude that leathery, buttery texture with graham cracker and caramelized sugar tones. They both definitely play in the same league. I find the 17 year is a little more one-dimensional compared to the 18 year, which is an incredible feat considering how many notes I previously took on my full review of the 2022 release. Like the nose, I find this 17 year to be more in line with some of the vintage Heaven Hill releases (think old Elijah Craig barrel proof batches or a heftier Elijah Craig 18 year), while the latest 18 year release sings with rich, fruity undulations. I am going to once again give the nod to the 18 year release. I'm not sure how the Heaven Hill team is going to outdo themselves from here... Ranking: 18 year (2024) > 17 year (2022) That's all for now. If you enjoyed this review, feel free to leave me a comment down below, or buy me a coffee if you're really feeling generous!
- Heaven Hill Heritage Collection 17 Year Barrel Proof Bourbon Review
For the curious whiskey enthusiast... We're bringing out the big guns today. I did a blind tasting of this live on Instagram with @amongstthefernsco and it was a blast. We very clearly identified this as the better whiskey when compared blindly to Elijah Craig Barrel Proof A122. Now that that's out of the way, I thought it was time to do a deeper dive on this release. Given the relative rarity of this bottle I'm sure there are many who are curious if this is worth chasing. I hope this review helps you to come to your own conclusion there. Now let's get into it! Company on Label: Heaven Hill Whiskey Type: Bourbon Mash Bill Percentages: 78% Corn, 10% Rye, 12% Malted Barley Proof: 118.2° Age: 17 years (a blend of 28% 20 year, 44% 19 year, and 28% 17 year bourbons) Further identification: This is the 2022 release from Heaven Hill under the Heritage Collection banner; it debuted in the Spring of 2022 at an MSRP of $275 Nose: From a foot away I can smell the rich caramel from a what seems to be a great deal of barrel influence. Soft orange peel dances in the air. Upon bringing the glass to my nose I find a rich, dark molasses right upfront. Wow, there's definitely a lot of oak going on here. There's a lovely cinnamon spice that trails off into rich pepper, damp earth and a dense pile of firewood. I'm finding a lot of the rich funk you would expect out of this release. I'm almost reminded of the pervasive cinnamon hots that some of the Starlight Cigar Batches take on from the Brazilian Amburana oak finishes but it is distinctly more subtle here. The orange peel I was smelling from a distance is subdued now as more of the cool, dark earthy tones express themselves in this early glass. Caramel, rich oak and molasses continue to be the persistent aromas in the glass before sipping on anything. There are hints of a bright vanilla bean and some herbaceous garden bed smells hiding in the depths. Oh now there's much more vanilla and just a touch of linen; it's like a Heaven Hill lightswitch just went off in my brain! We've returned to the big oak tones and big, spice-forward black pepper notes - time for a sip. Wow - the vanilla characteristics have turned really delectable after a sip. What a delicious aroma! The soft herbal tones have also returned in a larger way. Coffee grounds can be dug up with a prying nose. I'm really sticking a lot to the nutty tones here - testament perhaps to the fact that this almost certainly has to be from the gifted Beam yeast given the timeline of the awful fire that occurred at Heaven Hill in 1996. That slight nuttiness is one of my favorite characteristics in whiskey personally. It's not overpowering here and balances extremely well with the traditional vanilla that's been ramped up to the perfect age. As I get near the bottom of the glass I find myself wanting to drift away into silent enjoyment rather than keep up the analytics, which is typically a sure sign of a truly enjoyable pour! As the liquid in the glass seems to keep disappearing I start to find some hallmarks of age: aromas of a leather-bound book, oiled mahogany and troves of oak trinkets. The empty glass smells like vanilla perfected with just the right amount of sweetness. Palate: My first sip is surprisingly fruity given the experience on the nose. I find a ton of zesty orange peel right away. The cinnamon hots are definitely also present so that transferred well from the initial nose. There's an impressive ease to the palate which is surprising for a first sip of the day. Even from one sip there is a long linger highlighted by a slight salty peanut flavor. I'm more reminded of peanut shells and there's a touch of milk chocolate if you work your tongue around the rich mouth coating. I am already starting to think that this is a fantastic glass to sit and savour, and it might not do as well in a head-to-head format where there is a faster pace and more flavors competing. It's subtle and nuanced from the get go, but perhaps lacking a bit of wow factor up front. That said I do think it delivers an exceptional experience for someone with a refined palate. Perhaps it's time for another sip? I think so. Airing out a second sip builds in soft cherry skins, apricot and buttery peach cobbler. There is a big chest hug after this sip for me today. The similar peanut and chocolate linger from the first sip persists, but builds in intensity closer to a Reese's peanut butter cup. A larger sip and swish brings me to a lovely maraschino cherry with just a kiss of rye spice. It's cocktail forward in its sweetness with what feels like a dash of Angostura bitters on the side. As I near the end of the glass this continues to stand up really well; zesty orange peel, confectioners sugar, My last sip is a delight as blood orange, cherry parfait, and cinnamon doughnuts pepper my taste buds. The linger is long with a singing caramel, butterscotch and molasses granola sticks to every surface of my mouth. Yum! Rating: 5/5 (Just wow. One of my favorites.) This is a damn fine release from Heaven Hill. I'll certainly be sharing it and enjoying it in good company, but I'm not going to give this one a "Keep Amongst the Whiskey" rating as I don't think I will be able to readily find another to enjoy once this bottle is gone.
- Morris Australian Single Malt Whisky Review - An Exploration of Rutherglen, Victoria's Finest
Australian single malt whisky is a category I can confidently say I have had no experience with prior to being introduced to Morris. Though I have some dear friends who hail from the land down under, I have not had the pleasure of exploring if they're capable of making great single malt whisky. Scotch, Irish, and a budding sub-category in American single malt are all fairly well established in the world market today. So, what does a Rutherglen, Victoria, distillery have to say for themselves? Well, it turns out, they've been at this a lot longer than I've been alive. On the back label of their bottle, they offer a quick note on their rich heritage as the 'Masters of flavour', saying: At Morris our family has been crafting world renowned flavour for six generations, since 1859. It's our rare prize winning barrels that gift us a distinct and uniquely Australian whisky experience. Modern history, as it relates to their whisky, however, does not have continuity back to that date, which is true for most companies hanging their hat on tradition. In 2016, the company built a distillery around an old, original copper still and began producing whisky that built upon their long history with modern distillation practices. Combining local barley with the winery expertise of David Morris and the in-house cooper, Anton Remkes, means that this is an Australian company through and through. Morris goes on to explain the backbone of their team with their website, revealing: Collectively our team has decades of experience in producing whisky, and perhaps most importantly crafting distinct and unique flavour. From 2016, when we founded the distillery the team has been led by John McDougall, one of the world’s most renowned whisky makers with experience consulting in all of the traditionally recognised regions of Scotland for over 25 distilleries and brands including;. Balvenie, Laphroaig and Springbank. Darren Peck, is our resident Head Distiller and with 25 years of experience in the alcohol industry, has worked under the tutelage of McDougall for the last five years. The late Dr Jim Swan, described as the ‘Einstein of whisky’ for his technical expertise and has extensive experience working with renowned brands, was a key consultant. My review today features "The Signature" release of Morris, their flagship offering, which seems to be fairly widely distributed, which is always great to see a level of accessibility in something that crosses my desk. I believe it earned its name due to George Morris' signature being scrawled across the front label. Given Rutherglen emulated its name after the town just outside of Glasgow in Scotland, I wonder how many parallels we might find between some of the single malt Scotch whiskies that I've previously sampled. History, lore, and family tradition aside, you're probably wondering if the liquid in the bottle is worth your time and money, so let's get on with that. If you'd rather watch than read, that's me in the video above. It's well in line with what is written below, but is ultimately less detailed. I'd like to thank Morris for sending along this bottle with no strings attached so that I may give it a fair review, in accordance with my editorial policy. Let's jump in and explore everything this malt has to offer. Company on Label: Morris (Copper and Grain Distilling Co, imported by Hotaling & Co) Whiskey Type: Australian Single Malt Whisky Mash Bill Percentages: 100% malted barley Proof: 88° Age: NAS (A minimum of 3 years in oak before being further finished in Morris wine barrels; given the distillery opened in 2016, it couldn't be older than 8 years) Further identification: This flagship 700 mL bottle of Morris Australian single malt, aged in ex-wine casks made from American and French oak used in Morris' fortified wine business, is available now at an MSRP of $50-60, though your market pricing may vary Nose: The resting glass exudes a decadent sweetness that can be smelled from some distance away. Upon lifting the liquid to meet my nose, I find a potent, oily richness I'm well accustomed to in Irish whiskeys. It presents like a rich flan, impossibly creamy in the nose. After a long rest, I begin to explore the full depths of the glass; the sweet honey-butter aromas that roll out are magnificent. A slice of classic coffee cake sits upon a white napkin. Smelling further gives me the impression of stonework and fenestrations in the mind's eye, taking me to the older sections of London I've visited. It's a distinct malt, as to be expected from a malt, which challenges the observer much deeper than more impressionable spirits. As I struggle to wrestle with the ephemeral, I am urged to take a sip. Returning the glass to my nose after a few savored sips shows off a sweet air that swirls in the light summer breeze of a grassy knoll. This comfortable location feels a little ways inland from the ocean, but it is still close enough to have a touch of salt in the air. An arrangement of rocks forms a seldom-used fire pit that encircles the little liquid left in the glass. The empty glencairn smells of delicate moss and charcoal pencils. Palate: My first taste of Morris reveals eye-widening buttered popcorn and distinct grilled pita bread. Savory tomato tones bubble up alongside hints of mozzarella and basil, which, in conjunction with some of the tones from the nose, is suggestive of enjoying a well-made pizza at an outdoor restaurant somewhere in Europe. As I've woefully never been to Australia, I wonder how much of this is some local terroir playing a role in the final character of the whisky. Continued visitations to the oily depths show off fluffy King's Hawaiian rolls, oatmilk, and buttercream frosting. Overall, this is a balanced, buttery whisky that lands with delicate grace on the tongue. One of my favorite parts of this whisky is the mouthfeel and viscosity. My last sip makes my tongue say to my brain, "This is a great malt," before a wave of honey-butter and popcorn once again swirls in a sweet dance. This finish is on the shorter end, but the lingering mouth coating of butterscotch and milk chocolate more than makes up for that. TL;DR: A quintessential single malt whisky that is beautiful in its uniquely Australian character Rating: 4/5 (Really good. I want one of these on my shelf.) This lands much closer to the Irish single malt character than a single malt Scotch whisky, in my opinion, though fans of either can find something to love within this liquid. I find the likes of Clynelish 14 to be more dominating and powerful on the palate, but the Morris is actually a touch more complex. While the Clynelish excels and surpasses in the honey-butter department, Morris maintains a defining sweetness with that kiss of tomato, basil, and mozzarella really just screaming for a margherita pizza pairing. Yum!
- Pocket-Sized Review: Cedar Ridge Single Barrel Bourbon - An Examination of Iowa Corn's Influence in Whiskey
Cedar Ridge has long been on my list to taste, but busy has been my palate with a thousand other whiskeys... until now. The sweet wordsmith behind this sample, who goes by Jes Smyth, has shared two ounces of Iowa-grown and distilled liquid sunshine for me to explore, and for that, I am grateful! In my latest efforts to explore much more than just the big six Kentucky distilleries, I find myself drawn towards craft distillers that are doing things right. That takes many forms, but in the case of Cedar Ridge, there's a family that goes by the surname Quint who has been quietly crafting some sensational Iowa whiskey since 2005. Cedar Ridge describes their process on their website, saying: Managing every step of production, from grain to glass, is how you craft authentic whiskey. Our process is unique, affected by our specific location and even weather. You won’t find the Cedar Ridge taste anywhere else in the world. Below is an overview of what goes into making each sip special. We store and mill our corn and grain on-site from corn that is grown on our own family farm in Winthrop, Iowa. Lautering our mash separates the liquid wort and spent grain. The wort is then fermented and distilled, while the spent grain is hauled off as animal feed for local farmers. Twice distilling our whiskeys to a higher proof, and removing the impurities results in a cleaner, more approachable sipping whiskey. Allowing nature to be our ultimate guide in aging, we transfer the whiskey to barrels, and store them in non-temperature controlled rick houses. Iowa’s consistently inconsistent weather aids in the expansion and contraction of the barrels, allowing the whiskey to take on the rich aromas and flavors more quickly than in other regions. This being said, Mother Nature takes her cut – at a rate of 18% vs. the industry standard of 12%. With local grain sourcing and Iowa terroir effects running through the whiskey, I'm excited to see how this might be differentiated from some of my other favorite craft distillers. You may have seen one of their more popular releases, the Quintessential 'Portside' American single malt, that was making the rounds in whiskey circles near and far. Perhaps I'll get to that next, but for now I am glad to be able to find out what their bourbon tastes like, which I'm sure you are also interested in. In that case, let's get to work! Company on Label: Cedar Ridge Whiskey Type: Bourbon Mash Bill Percentages: 74% corn, 14% malted rye, and 12% 2-row malted barley Proof: 118.3° Age: 3 years Further identification: This is single barrel 17-634 selected by Binny's of Illinois Nose: Buttered biscuits and old-timey caramel greet the nose upon first raising the glass. I'm immediately impressed by how much of a distinct character this has to it, finding what feels like a high rye content in the mash bill. It's dusty with plenty of pleasant, mature oak tones... Surely that age statement on the front of the bottle is wrong? Raspberry tones swing in like the coming of a looming rain storm; I could feel it in my bones. Lemongrass builds in intensity with time as I find myself vaguely nostalgic over the smell of sweet, sugary Fruit Loops cereal. It's very funky in a lighthearted, playful way. I'm still dumbfounded about how well-aged and well-integrated this is. Returning my nose to the glass after a sip makes me smell... Willett rye?! It is faint, but a distinct parallel that my mind just drew and thoroughly enjoyed. Lemon frosting, spring florals, and layers of sweet cinnamon can all be discovered on long inhales. Late in the glass, sea salt, white chocolate, and red velvet cake dance in the nose. Overall, this is a savor-worthy experience I find myself wishing will never end as I float down a sweet raspberry river. The empty glass smells of funky Al Fakher hookah tobacco, cedar floorboards, and sun-warmed pine cones, all decadent and soft aromas. Palate: My first sip is a delectable treat of a lemon lollipop, the sweet reward waiting in the otherwise stale air of an old bank I was dragged into in the 1990s. Another sip and swish offers a wonderful balance between sweet and spice as an entire basket of fruit spills across the tongue. Plum, macerated red grape, cinnamon, blackberry, and red velvet cake all do a happy little dance in the mouth. There's a lovely oily mouthfeel and a sugar cookie flavor that distinctly reminds me of Irish whiskey on the linger. Sipping near the bottom of the glass offers thick, viscous sweet cream with espresso undertones. My last taste is a bittersweet departure hallmarked by sweet caramel and delicate balance, just like the nose opened with. The linger is on the shorter end, with buttered biscuit notes sitting in pure post-dinner comfort. It gives a lofty, rising feeling, like a whispered promise of good things to come. TL;DR: Damn good craft whiskey that punches way above its age statement Rating: 4/5 (Really good; I want one of these on my shelf.) With all this nuance and excitement, I can't help but admit that this is a thoroughly impressive whiskey. Some of that clearly has to do with the care that has gone into distillation and aging parameters, but there has got to be something to be said about that local corn too. I was so impressed that I may have begged Jes to send me her backup bottle, a wild request, which she thankfully obliged. What's also impressive is Jes' skill as an author of emotional fiction. In her debut novel, Time For Once, I was pleased to learn that the winery-turned-distillery that is featured in the final chapter was inspired by a visit to Cedar Ridge. On page 305, Jes writes: He rounded the corner and the red barn came into view, a sore thumb atop a hill out of place among the otherwise flat terrain. Jolie popped her head out the open window and shouted into the wind, "What is this place?" Jace turned onto the winding gravel path. "It's a winery. They also distill their own gin, vodka, and eventually whiskey." The sound of crunching rocks spilled through the open windows as they ascended the hill in a trail of dust. "Wine made in Iowa." She scrunched her nose and, once he had parked, stepped out of the car. "Is it good?" While I can't speak to the quality of the wine, the eventual whiskey has turned out just great. With the recent news that Murphy Quint is taking over the role of master distiller from his dad, Jeff, Cedar Ridge is undoubtedly set up for a bright future. I look forward to tasting more from this distinguished craft distillery.