We live in a world that pays attention to speed, volume, and flash.
Subtlety has its own power in relation to that.
-Peter Erskine
In an age where prices seem to be ever-escalating and the commitment to quality ever-deteriorating, few distilleries stand alone as the last bastions of quality. Wild Turkey is one such distillery for me. Despite the operation being built upon a pretty massive column still (I tend to prefer the nuanced depth that pot stills typically produce), the Russell family has continued on with a naturally derived legacy that one can certainly be proud of.
While craft distillers of today are constantly experimenting, finishing, and reinventing themselves, the Wild Turkey lineup has almost always consisted of just two staples: a bourbon and, more recently, a rye. One might ask at this junction, "Well how many different mash bills of those categories do you make?" The likes of Jimmy Russell would respond in his calm, Kentucky tone, "I told you, we make a bourbon and a rye." In his typical honest character and dry humor, he might add, "...and thank you for drinking Wild Turkey."
Bourbon has always been the focus of the Wild Turkey brand. With the next generation coming into the fold, it's time for Wild Turkey to join in on the Rye Renaissance. The age we are living in right now, the Rye Renaissance, as I'm calling it, features the possible resurgence of rye whiskey as the prominent whiskey category of the United States, as it was before Prohibition came and changed everything.
Jimmy Russell was the fortunate soul who worked hard to inherit the responsibility of the distillery he joined under the old name of Anderson County Distilling Co. in 1954. He was promoted to Master Distiller in 1967 after the company was renamed to J.T.S. Brown & Sons. It was in this era that rye was being sourced from the likes of Michter's (Pennco) in Pennsylvania as well as Maryland and Illinois. Jimmy has notably never really been a rye whiskey enthusiast. It wasn't until his son Eddie saw an opportunity to capture a new category with Russell's rye and expand distribution of the Wild Turkey 101 proof rye. It would take Jimmy's grandson to truly catapult us into the Rye Renaissance however.
Bruce Russell, known digitally as 'Russell's Rye Guy', has been intently pushing for the now prominent grain. In my last barrel pick with the laid-back young Associate Blender, I learned of the many Bruce-isms that make the rye guy such a character. He might throw out a quick story about the small-town shenanigans that happen in rural Kentucky, full of phrases like "madder'n'shit" or "full of piss 'n' vinegar," but at the end of the day he's just a down-to-earth guy who enjoys rye whiskey—and his grandmother's crisp cookies covered in butter. We've all got a story to tell, but the Russell's family story is one of consistency. Bruce's dad, Eddie describes the latest Wild Turkey Master's Keep release on their website, saying:
Each release in the Master’s Keep series has been a salute to stories in our history, to other whiskies we’ve made, and even to other styles of spirits that I happen to enjoy. Master’s Keep Triumph is my tip of the cap to my son, Bruce Russell, newly appointed Associate Blender at Wild Turkey. Bruce has always had a passion for rye, and in making a Master’s Keep for his palate, it only felt right.
This edition of Master’s Keep is a “Triumph” – at 10-years-old, it’s the oldest age-stated rye we’ve ever released at the Wild Turkey Distilling Co. For me, it’s a magnificent expression of what rye whiskey can be. We laid down the casks that make up this small batch with the intention of allowing it to age longer than most – after all, that is one thing we like to do here at Wild Turkey, age longer. Over the course of their lifetime, we continued to taste them, allowing the barrels to work their magic and perfect the whiskey inside.
It’s true to the quality and flavors that our Wild Turkey Distilling Co. ryes are known for, but the extended maturation helped develop a palate of sweet honey and clove notes that transition to dark chocolate, dates, and spice, and a rich mocha-coffee and black pepper finish.
Triumph is an exceptional chapter in our Master’s Keep story. Like a good book, it’s intriguing, gratifying and full of depth. We think it’s one you’ll want to keep coming back to.”
Kudos to the marketing team for getting that many words out of Eddie. Marketing aside, it is nice to see a well-aged rye on the shelves, albeit at a little steeper of a price tag than we are used to. I remember as recently as 2018 these releases would sit on shelves at around $100. In today's whiskey market, I'm sure these will have no problem selling through from retailers across the country, even at $275. Wondering if you're ready to depart with those dollars? Will this live up to the "Triumph" title? Let's dive into a full review of the latest Wild Turkey Master's Keep release and find out.
Company on Label: Wild Turkey Distilling Co
Whiskey Type: Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey
Mash Bill Percentages: 51% rye, 37% corn, 12% malted barley
Proof: 104°
Age: 10 years
Further identification: This is the 2024 release of Master's Keep, ringing in at an MSRP of $275
Nose: On first lifting my Glencairn, I find oodles of biscotti tones. It's a bready, cakey, sweet, creamy treat right from the start! Further inhales provide a sweet medley of parfait, a touch of citrus, and Christmas spice. It's just lovely in the nose. I find a sweet linen aroma somewhere between a flower and a dryer sheet, a hallmark of older whiskeys. Oodles of soft toffee, cantucci, and delicate gardenia tones make my nose incredibly happy to exist on my face. After a long rest in the glass, a few gentle fruit characteristics emerge, like macerated maraschino cherry and ruby red grapefruit. I am grateful to have lived at the same time that this bottle is available, for its aroma in my nose is pure bliss.
After a sip, vintage whiskey tones begin to creep into the mind. It's not quite dusty in the general sense that other distilleries have produced, but this is inherently dusty Wild Turkey. I find gossamer spiderwebs, silky and shining in the fresh morning dew. Deep inhales prove this is incredibly soft and delicate but not muted as it noses way below 104 proof. It's like sitting in a book cafe with a plate of sweet fruit and the excitement of opening up an old book. That bibliosmia contributes handily to the dusty profile. The empty glass smells of honey, vanilla biscotti, and sweet hay.
Palate: As the liquid hits lips and tongue, I find a lovely creaminess that sinks into every crevice of the mouth. Honey sweetness and melted butter on toasted bread form a base layer on the taste buds before a kiss of spice leaves a tingling sensation skittering across the tongue like a waterbug. The impossibly long linger carries some delicate florality and hot chocolate powder that sticks in the gums. Aerating a second sip offers far more texture and depth as salt, pie dough, sweet glazed doughnut, caramel, and powdered sugar mixes with a general stickiness of cooking oil. A bit more earthiness builds into the growing linger that grows with each passing sip. Continuing to do so builds upon the fruit tones and adds sweetened ice tea with a wedge of lemon. My goodness, this is what all ryes strive to be. It has a vintage character that harkens back to the real good old days of rye whiskey before prohibition. Mint leaf can be plucked from the sweetened ice tea, condensation soaking through a white paper napkin. Whiffs of vanilla pipe tobacco in a corn cob pipe drift off from the fields lined with corn stalks. Creaminess continues to be a dominant tone of the overall experience, with vanilla biscotti leading the charge. The hints of almond and earthiness throughout create a subtle and complex journey that runs in a long, meandering loop along a woodsy walking trail. At a final taste of a thoroughly savored glass, I find incredibly delicious notes of vanilla rock candy, pear, peach flambé, and the classic biscotti tone that has been all throughout this glass soaked in a touch of rum. The finish matches the duration that was adored on the Russell's 15 year bourbon: infinitely long. This is easily my favorite part about this rye. Kudos to Bruce and team for their efforts in crafting this absolutely wonderful whiskey.
TL;DR: A subtle, long lingering, dusty, delicious dram that had me wondering, "This is a rye?!"
Rating: 4.5/5
Between the infinite, subtle complexity, the notes reminiscent of vintage rye whiskey, and the impeccable length of the finish, this is a masterpiece whiskey well deserving of the Master's Keep title. Wild Turkey has managed to create a timeless classic with this rye—one that barely even tastes like a rye—raising the bar for themselves and others by redefining what good whiskey means. Good whiskey doesn't have to be barrel proof, ultra-age-stated, or exorbitantly rare in order to be an exceptional sipping experience. Triumph embodies the rare moment when the more subtle whiskey prevails as a pinnacle in quality in modern whiskey. Don't go into this pour expecting a tidal wave of volume. This dram rewards the patient observer with timeless, thoughtful enjoyment for as long as you have to sit with it.
If you're a curious whiskey enthusiast like me, you may be tempted to feature this bottle in a tasting. Be mindful of your perception of quality if you choose to do so, as higher proof pours may be yelling louder like that annoying guy at the bar, but try to listen to what they're actually saying if you do venture into a comparative tasting. In an exercise in thorough tasting, I'll compare a few of the latest and greatest rye whiskeys of a similar age statement below.
Bonus Comparative Tasting & Ranking of Pinnacle Rye Whiskeys:
Wild Turkey Master's Keep Triumph 10 Year Rye
vs
Rare Character Brook Hill 11 Year MGP Rye
vs
Parker's Heritage Collection 10 Year Rye
Wild Turkey Master's Keep Triumph: This glass is creamy with a dusty earthiness as well in the nose. Soft, delicate sweetness just dances in the mouth, like a slow dance with eyes closed, and nothing else matters but you and that song you are enjoying so much. A long savor reminds me of the comfort of a snack cabinet that has just what you're looking for: a bite of s'mores made with a touch of creamy peanut butter. Like rolling down a car window to enjoy a perfect stretch of country highway, the linger is ridiculously long if you have the patience to sit with it as long as it goes on. Wonderful whiskey all the way through.
Brook Hill 11 Year MGP Rye "Want": Bright and fruity, this is clearly an outgoing nose. Sipping attacks the tongue like a nuclear-powered Sazerac 18 year, quickly pulling one back in for another sip. Raspberry tea, coconut shavings, and grilled pineapple can be found in the smoldering coals where your tongue once stood. My goodness, that is good. Peach rings dance late in the glass. This is clearly a markedly higher proof when compared side by side, but qualitatively evaluated based on enjoyment, I can decipher a clear winner after a few sips.
Parker's Heritage Collection 10 Year Rye: Dark, tannic oak tones lead the way upon lifting the glass. Nougat, caramel, and more traditional barrel funk dominate in the nose. Sipping is all chocolate, peanut brittle, and the same Thanksgiving fixings I found in my original review. It's a lovely rye that still lacks the long finish I yearn for, which is in pretty stark contrast to the Wild Turkey bottling.
Contrasts: For one, the Brook Hill is aged an extra year compared to the other two releases. Triumph is also reserved and creamy, whereas Brook Hill is punchy and lively in the nose. The palates follow suit as well, the Triumph drinking like a whispered promise of love while the Brook Hill sinks its teeth into your skin. The tingle is real with Brook Hill, while the impossibly long linger of the Triumph lands like a hug, or the feeling of passing through the cloud layer while skydiving: comfortable, beautiful, and totally eye-opening. The Parker's release is clearly from a completely different distillery, and despite only being separated by a 45 minute drive, these ryes are off on two different journeys. The Parker's is dark, tannic, zesty, and brooding, while the Triumph is elegant, classy, soft, and refined. If I saw both at a black tie cocktail hour, I'd be vying for the attention of the Wild Turkey in the slick, stylish tux.
Similarities: Very little, surprisingly, at least between the Triumph and the Brook Hill. There are a few floral parallels between the Parker's rye and Triumph noses, however. This is the beauty of rye whiskey: grain sources, yeast interaction, distillation methods, and aging locations all play a critical role in the final character. There seems to be more depth of flavor possible out of the rye whiskey category as compared to modern examples of majority-corn-based bourbon. It's for this reason I think we are in a proper Rye Renaissance.
Ranking:
Wild Turkey Master's Keep Triumph 10 Year Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey
Brook Hill Indiana Straight Rye Whiskey Barrel 1607 "Want"
Parker's Heritage Collection 10 Year Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey
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