Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,
Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun;
Conspiring with him how to load and bless
With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eves run;
To bend with apples the moss'd cottage-trees,
And fill all fruit with ripeness to the core;
—Excerpt from To Autumn by John Keats
To autumn and to whiskey we go! Watershed Distillery, out of Colombus, Ohio, is leaning into the season's change with their latest Fall Finishing Series release: A straight bourbon whiskey aged six years and finished in apple brandy barrels for 10-12 months. The back label has a lovely description worth highlighting as well:
This handcrafted spirit is a celebration of the flavors inspired by autumn and the warm and cozy feelings we look forward to in the cooler months. The perfect tribute to Ohio, it is finished in our toasted American Oak Apple Brandy barrels, aged six years and bottled at barrel strength.
Finished whiskey was a craze that ran rampant for a while but seems to be leveling off in a manageable way for us whiskey enthusiasts. It's been a hot minute since I've poured myself a properly finished whiskey, so I'm very much looking forward to this change in pace. Big thanks to the folks at Watershed Distillery for the opportunity to review their product.
Company on Label: Watershed Distillery
Whiskey Type: Straight bourbon whiskey finished in apple brandy barrels
Mash Bill Percentages: 72% corn, 21% rye, 7% malted barley
Proof: 129.2°
Age: 6 years
Further identification: Batch 5 of Watershed's Fall Finishing Series is a lottery release only for an MSRP of $89.99
Nose: There is no question this whiskey is finished, but I'm questioning if I just entered an orchard of over-ripened apples souring on the ground. So pungent is the smell that I'm reflexively setting down the glass. Sometimes, rest is best, and sometimes, a pour needs to acclimate to its surroundings without being disturbed. After about twenty minutes, I revisit the nose and am relieved with what's rising from the glass: granny smith apples ready to be mashed into apple sauce with cinnamon and honey. A few swirls release nostalgic baking spices, transporting me to my childhood home, football on the television, and my mother baking her weekly Sunday apple pie with a perfect lattice top pie crust. I think it's time for a sip.
Returning to the nose after a few sips brings out additional spices, ginger, and clove, with sweet honey effortlessly balancing them. This smells like returning from a chilly football game: cold toes, numb fingertips, and a wish for immediate warmth. Late in the glass, I find a bit more earthy tones, lines of apple trees, and late September rain. The empty glass smells of caramelized apple cores and a bowl of holiday potpourri.
Palate: Red delicious apples and brown sugar coat my mouth, and I do mean coat; this mouthfeel is quite nice. Sticky honey and a fun barrel funk swing in next as ginger tingles on the tip of my tongue. There is a decent amount of heat here, but it's well-balanced and pairs really well with the warming flavors. The finish is long but a bit drying and gritty. Additional sips bring forth caramel-covered apples bubbling in cask iron on low heat, damp earth, and the skins of dark plums. The funk, though, is what I know and love about craft, but it's kicked up a notch, and I'm not sure the mood calls for it. I will say the proof does sip lower than its 129.2° distinction. My last sip is filled with heat, gooey apple pie filling, and that unique funk that will likely make this the last pour of the night.
TL;DR: a flavorful dram, but beware, this one requires lots of air time
Rating: 3/5
I appreciate a seasonal approach to finished whiskey, as most of these stand out as different from an average bourbon. I was glad to have tasted this three times, per the editorial policy, as this pour is a prime example of when substantial rest in the glass can improve the experience of whiskey overall. While I can't see myself reaching for this on my own, I can see this bottle standing proudly on a holiday table surrounded by all the Thanksgiving desserts and as a talking piece for those who may not regularly drink whiskey.
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