What do you think of when you think of pot still whiskey? Do you think of Ireland, and their single pot still whiskey? Perhaps you think of Scotland and their historically slow and patient methods. If you're like me, you may think of Willett Family Estate, and their iconic pot still built by Vendome Copper and Brass. If you're still pondering, you're likely thinking back to the old and slow way of distilling spirits. The creamy and often oily palate that pot still whiskey creates may come to mind or a specific distillery that has mastered their techniques. For me? It's all of the above.
My adoration for this type of whiskey-making is one I love to write about. Why, you may be wondering? One big and bold reason: it's a process that has been around for centuries. Slow and patient, a copper pot is used to heat the fermented mash where the alcohol vapors rise through the still, condensing into liquid, which is then collected and distilled again. Compared to the continuous distillation process of a column still, pot still spirits are often heavier and more flavorful. The method, however, can be labor-intensive and costly, as it's a small batch process compared to a column still that can produce high volumes of whiskey. But by golly, the end result, when done right, is pouretry.
Before I dive into the tasting notes, let me provide a brief overview of the Neeley Family Distillery and why you should put them on your radar. Located 40 minutes northwest of Louisville, in Sparta, Kentucky, the Neeley Family Distillery was founded by, you guessed it, the Neeley family, whose roots in whiskey-making trace back multiple generations, notably in illegal moonshine production and bootlegging. It wasn't until 2015 when tenth-generation Roy Neeley and eleventh-generation Royce Neeley made the family business legal for the first time ever. It's actually a fascinating history, which the Amongst the Whiskey team had the opportunity to hear firsthand during a tour of the distillery a few months ago. Their website offers a brief history, too:
Royce, who is the lead distiller and possibly the youngest distillery owner in the world, makes his spirits the historic way with old family mash recipes using pot stills, cypress fermenters, sweet mash, only the finest local grains, the freshest Kentucky limestone water, and the Neeley family yeast strand, which is propagated at the distillery. The Neeley moonshine recipe is still revered as the best in the eastern Kentucky mountains. Roy and Royce uphold that same quality in the authentic spirits they distill today. The only difference is the taxes that are now paid.
The Old Jett Brothers lineup of finished whiskey pays homage to the original Jett Brothers Distilling Co., founded in 1881. Unfortunately, the Old Jett Brothers did not survive prohibition, like many other distilleries during that time, but what remains of the original distillery is located about 10 miles from the Neeley Family Distillery. Royce wanted to honor the terroir influences found in the Jett Brothers bourbon, which he believes is likely found in the taste profile of Neeley bourbon today.
A big thank you to the abundantly generous Gregory Clyod for the introduction to this distillery and for gifting this signed bottle. So, how does this double-barreled pot-distilled craft bourbon taste? Read on to find out!
Company on Label: Neeley Family Distillery
Whiskey Type: Straight bourbon whiskey
Mash Bill Percentages: Undisclosed but likely their 70% corn, 20% rye and 10% malted barley
Proof: 109.8°
Age: 4 years
Further identification: This whiskey was double barreled in a charred French oak barrel for 14 months and is available at the distillery
Nose: As I lift the glass up, a rich and oily aroma welcomes me, ushering me inside a well-lived home where it might be morning and breakfast is toasted cinnamon bread. There's a distinct bread-like quality, which is really lovely. Further on into the glass, I find pine resin, dried leaves, chunks of artisan dark chocolate, and day-old sliced granny smith apples. The oak influence from the second barreling is apparent; clove and roasted cinnamon are predominately featured, but that oily pot still influence balances the oak well. It's time for a sip. Oh wow. Everything has amplified after a few sips. The cinnamon has transformed into a sweeter, more nostalgic candy-like quality; the dark chocolate is now in a cooling baked cookie, puffy and doughy; the pine has transformed into a mature forest during fall with the slightest whisper of leather. The smell makes me want to sip again. And the sip makes me want to smell my glass again. It's the infinity of good, comfortable whiskey.
Palate: Surprisingly gentle at the start but creamy for days. There's fancy vanilla extract, you know the kind I'm talking about, dark caramel sauce with muddled raspberries and warming ground cinnamon. Buttery pie crust and stewed apples swing in next, along with more spice, as I continue to sip further into the glass. Noticeable wood spice and oak enter mid-palate, like a book with dog-eared pages; it's there until the next page is turned. The finish is long with warm cinnamon rolls and baked apple pie. The final sips are confectioner's sugar-sweet with a fun and energetic grain-forward barrel funk.
TL;DR: an approachable dram with undertones of enticing complexity
Rating: 4/5
(Really good. I want one of these on my shelf.)
Admittedly, this pour took several tastings to get me to its final rating. There is so much greatness in this bottle. The whiskey itself is a wonderful example of Kentucky craft done right, but I did find the double-barreling influence frustrating at first. I had to work harder than I wanted to taste the flavors of that oily and creamy pot still whiskey Neeley does so well. I didn't give up, though, and the longer I spent with this bottle, the more I began to realize its approachability still held quite a bit of complexity. For that reason, I would consider this a step above a typical double-barreled whiskey. I recommend this to those who like a diversified shelf.
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