Redwood Empire is once again making waves in the whiskey world with two new releases under the Haystack Needle label. With a slight redesign and a bit of fancy glass that make the exterior of this bottle look like a tree trunk, Haystack Needle is ready to reinvent itself from the old days of being a sourced MGP release. Now fully containing only their own distillate, we're finally getting to see what the art of enduring craft whiskey brands looks like in the modern whiskey era. Bottling individually numbered barrels of both bourbon and rye, Jeff Duckhorn and team are just now getting to enjoy the fruits of their labor that went into the barrel 8 long years ago. As we all know, patience is key in whiskey, and some of the distillation and maturation techniques that Redwood Empire employs are evidence of their commitment to that virtue.
While distilling on a continuous column still isn't my favorite method for distillation, the locally sourced grains, fermentation done in small lots, distillation done in small batches, and new make being matured in barrels that have been open-air seasoned for no less than 36 months are all ticks in the "doing things right" column for me. The longer barrel seasoning duration is really the key for me here, though. The industry norm is usually something between 12 and 24 months. I've seen many modern brands tout 18 months as a badge of honor for their patience. Redwood Empire takes that a step further, choosing to follow old-school cooperage rules from an era when assiduity was far more commonplace. Not rushing the air seasoning step lets the natural process of partial oak degradation occur, a technique that is well known to strip tannins from the cell structure of the wood. The end result of longer air seasoning? Less sharp notes that impair and mask those buttery characteristics of great whiskey.
Our distillery is in the heart of the Russian River Valley wine region. It was carved out of the buildings originally housing an apple canning and processing plant owned by the Hallberg family, one of the area’s preeminent families during “West County’s” apple production heyday. The Hallbergs were known for producing a wide variety of apple products, mainly under the Redwood Empire label. Today, the facility and the climate make this the ideal place to make great whiskey, with plenty of relics on site to remind us of our ties to a rich agricultural history.
Interestingly, Redwood Empire utilizes a palletized barrel storage technique where the barrels are stored upright, with a removeable bung on the top head; they say, for earthquake safety. I've long thought that this style of barrel storage limits airflow between the barrels, potentially impacting the aging process of certain parts of the rickhouse, but I'm always willing to be proven wrong by a taste test. We're living through a new era of whiskey, one in which old tricks have the potential to be beaten by new innovations. Is Redwood Empire setting off on the right track to be successful for years to come? Well, we're going to have to taste thoughtfully to determine that. So let's get to it, shall we?
Company on Label: Redwood Empire Distilling
Whiskey Type: Straight Rye Whiskey
Mash Bill Percentages: 90% rye, 5% malted barley, 5% wheat
Proof: 115.2°
Age: 8 years
MSRP: $120
Further Identification: This is single barrel number 1,500, distilled and bottled by Redwood Empire—no longer the sourced MGP label it used to be—offering grain-to-glass Sonoma County, CA character
Nose: Upon lifting the glass to my nose, I find a rich barrel funk and earthy clay first and foremost. Hints of butterscotch follow, before crème de menthe, limoncello, and green chartreuse come together to create the leading profile. There's a quick evolution towards black pepper, allspice, and a kiss of clove before settling back into an earthy scene. Pine needles, wintergreen, funky oak, and lemon pepper come together in a cohesive, dashing, and daring assemblage of realistic outdoor scents. I find myself amongst the trees with this pour—somewhere I long to be on these drawn-out winter nights, barred in by frigid winds and quiet desolation. A good whiskey has the power to transport; this is one such glass. Long inhales produce a slight fruity note of fig jam and raspberry compote, backboned by woodspice and almond extract.
After a sip, the nose turns towards more earthy again, and I almost begin to get a dusty vibe happening—think 1969 National Distillers Old Crow Chessman, just with less rich, viscous butterscotch and more rye character. After the better part of an hour in the glass, the aromas are quite settled into their comfortable places. A jar of nutmeg rests on a wooden mantle, sweet peach chunks sit just below a baked pie crust, and a hard lemon lollipop awaits a first lick. The empty glencairn smells of vintage clothes racks, cacao, cedar, and mugwart incense.
Palate: My first sip is the perfect balance between zesty and creamy. Lemon frosting leads the charge in the front of the mouth, before creamy Earl Gray tea smoothes the tongue into a soft, velvety blanket. The mouthcoating is solidly oily, something I think is quite important for a satisfying sip. Another sip and swish is a touch more potent, with bergamot, expressed lemon peel, and tamarind coming together nicely. As sips continue, the lovely creamy tones continue as coconut cream, dulce de leche, and flan make my taste buds quite happy. The only qualm I can find is a slight medicinal cherry note and a touch of licorice; both of these notes are infinitesimal compared to the characteristics of the rest of the glass, so I won't knock it too much. Late in the glass, a soft mulled wine comes to pass, a fun flash of complexity on a nuanced, developing profile. My last sip is lemon tea and funky butterscotch for days with Christmas spice tingling across the tongue on an impeccably long finish. Yum!
TL;DR: An earthy, woodsy rye that transports the sipper right to where this whiskey was made
Rating: 4/5
This is a damn good rye. I think Jeff Duckhorn and team are really coming into their own this year, and I hope they can continue to put out some consistent greats like this bottle moving forward.
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