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A Historic Tasting: Sipping Vintage Mount Vernon Rye Whiskey from 1902 to 1947 - an Exploration on What Maryland Rye is All About

Updated: 3 days ago

Vintage Mount Vernon Rye Whiskey

"Since very early in the [nineteenth] Century the whiskies distilled in Maryland have been renowned.... The equable climate, remarkably soft water, together with the Superior rye grown on the uplands of Maryland, combine to make the product of her stills peerless among the whiskies of America."
-From the back label of Waldorf Maryland Old Rye Whiskey (c.1900)

Step back into the incredibly rich story of Mount Vernon and the equally exciting broader Maryland-style rye. Is there a better method for studying than by sipping through history? With the help of a group of ardent and knowledgeable enthusiasts and distillers alike, we gathered an impeccable collection of Maryland rye whiskeys together for a truly legendary tasting in revered company. Reader, be warned: ahead lies chicanery, monkeyshines, jealousy, and as much truth as we could gather from our group of esteemed palates. Come along for a journey from 1902 to today!


Wood fired whiskey stills

Two hearths lie filled with glowing embers. Wood smoke permeates the air. Water gurgles in a constant flow, providing a cool spray if one stands too close. The chill of the outdoors is fended off by stone walls, brick floors, and a wood-shingled roof. At this marvelous, undisclosed location in the heart of where American rye whiskey was first forged in copper and flame, an ardent group of the world's greatest tasters was assembled for an unforgettable night of palate calibration. Who could possibly be behind a tasting of this magnitude? For some, it was a first meeting. For others, a reverent reunion in the dim light of a fully functioning distillery. Having the likes of Gregory Cloyd, Curt Kolcun, Mark Wade, Steve Bashore, Seth Weinburg, Eric Witz, Laura Fields, Alan Bishop, Erik Wolfe, Amanda Bryant, JJ Joseph Jackson, Jake Holshue, Paul Menta, Sam Komlenic, Tim Andrews, Vanoy, Kaitlin Fergeson, Ted Wolfe, Vanoy Welch, Alden Hart, Justin Cherry, Timothy Walker, Gina Teranto, and Holly & Lawrence Bostic all under one roof was truly a blessing. The collective knowledge in this group is absolutely unmatched. The Amongst the Whiskey team, Nick Anderson and Jes Smyth, were honored to be in attendance, to soak up the whiskey history running in rivulets between pours.


When it came time to get opening and pouring, Greg and Nick got right to work, pulling corks with patient finesse. All of the bottles opened up beautifully, suggesting a great tasting ahead, but not all vintage bottles remain as perfectly preserved as the day they were bottled—a lesson this tasting will undoubtedly highlight. There's a little-discussed funny business factor in prohibition-era whiskey. Chicanery, cost-cutting, and potential distillation flaws may lie in wait when you open a bottle that was produced in a time when confusion was at its highest in the whiskey industry. Additives were sometimes put into whiskey to make them more palatable and marketable, things like caramel coloring, glycerin, prune juice, and other fruit juices. The only way to tell if some of these shenanigans were utilized is by analyzing the liquid, either with calibrated palates or calibrated scientific measurement equipment like an HPLC for chromatography or a mass spectrophotometer. This is an effort underway by one of our wisest guests.


If you're particularly interested in learning more about the history behind these bottles, I'd recommend Laura Fields' writeup that featured the same bottlings from this tasting as a muse for diving incredibly deep into the backstory behind the distilleries, bottlers, and distributors of these times. It's from her incredible work and the thorough research of the sources listed at the bottom of this article that we learn of what makes some of these bottles stand out from others.


Amongst the Whiskey founder Nick Anderson opening a bottle of Mount Vernon Straight Rye Whiskey from 1933
They do open...

Ready to learn how the Mount Vernon name weaves throughout the history of Maryland-style rye whiskey? We'll start with the timeline of events before we get into some tasting notes that put even more color to the story at hand. Let's jump in and discover the underlying character of a whiskey from a bygone era and how we might use this knowledge to make better whiskey today!


 

Timeline of Mount Vernon Rye


1797: George Washington taps Scottish farm manager James Anderson to begin a venture to distill whiskey

1798: Construction of George Washington's Mount Vernon Distillery is completed, featuring a grain mill utilizing large stone grindstones turned by a water-powered gristmill, wooden mash tubs for fermentation, and copper pot stills heated by wood fires

1799: Just as peak production is achieved at the new distillery, Washington passes away, leaving the distillery to his nephew, Lawrence Lewis

1814: After steady declines in the business, the distillery closes and falls into neglect and dilapidation

1834: Henry S. Hannis is born in Philadelphia, PA

1850: During the Civil War, physicians would often prescribe spiritus frumenti (whiskey) as a medicine for soldiers, demand for spirits rose significantly in this era

1856: Hannis becomes an accountant at Gibson's Distillery in Pennsylvania

1858: The Mt Vernon Distillery, RD#3, is built in Baltimore, Maryland

1863: Henry Hannis establishes the Hannis Distilling Company (also known as H. S. Hannis & Co. from '70-'71), headquartered in Philadelphia, PA, with the Mt. Vernon Distillery under purview

1866: Hannis purchases a second distillery in Martinsburg, West Virginia, which he calls Hannisville, RD#1

1870: Hannis Distilling Company expanded production to meet this surging demand; Mount Vernon rye becomes a prominent Maryland whiskey

1876: Mount Vernon Rye wins the first prize at the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition

1880: The Hannis Distilling Company's Mt. Vernon Distillery is surveyed on the corner of Ostend Street and Russel Street, showing 14 men employed in the space

Mt Vernon Distillery 1880 Survey Map

1886: Henry Hannis passes away in the Norristown Asylum due to mental health struggles

1899: Hannis Distilling Company is bought by the Whiskey Trust and enters into an exclusive bottling contract with Cook & Bernheimer, a New York wholesaler who distributed throughout the US

1902: Our first Mount Vernon Rye bottling under exploration is produced

1917: World War I wartime prohibition and the looming 18th Amendment cause Hannis Distilling Company to cease operations

1920: Prohibition takes effect; Mount Vernon Rye begins to be marketed as medicinal whiskey under the American Medicinal Spirits Company, despite Baltimore largely looking the other way with regard to Prohibition enforcement

1933: American Medicinal Spirits becomes National Distillers, who continues to produce the square bottling of Mount Vernon Rye as one of its flagship labels well into the 1950s

1941: Hannis Distilling Corporation is incorporated in a July Delaware charter with headquarters in Wilmington, Delaware; this is likely a branding move from National Distillers, keenly aware of the previous reputation the Hannis name carried

1987: Jim Beam purchases National Distillers, choosing to end production of the Mount Vernon label when rye whiskey sales were at abysmal lows


 

All the Bottlings We Explored


In total, 8 bottles were collected for this tasting, the brunt of which were provided by Gregory Cloyd and Curt Kolcun with no expectation of monetary kickback. It's this kind of generosity that makes the whiskey community so endearing. We are constantly seeking selfless retribution for escalating acts of kindness. The one-ups come swiftly from passionate enthusiasts, as the stakes and the quality of the whiskey grow to exorbitant and extravagant heights. The best of friends compete in sympathy, benevolence, knowledge, and magnanimity rather than the typical frivolous frights of social order.


 

Spring 1902 Produced Mount Vernon Rye


Spring 1902 Distilled Mount Vernon Pure Rye Bottled by Macy & Jennings, New York for Edwin G. Bruns

Bottle Information: Made by the Hannis Distilling Co. in the spring of 1902 with an unknown bottling date, this whiskey was bottled by Macy & Jenkins for the reputable New York broker Edwin G. Bruns. Given the name on the bottle is Mount Vernon, it can reasonably be deduced that this particular distillate came from their Baltimore, MD distillery (Mt. Vernon Distillery, Registered Distillery #3), first established in 1858. The Hannis Distilling Co. was still headquartered in Philadelphia, PA, at this time, the same location where the then-late Henry Hannis originally established the company.


Nose: The glass leads floral, sweet, and perfumed, with prune, rose petals, and soft lavender aromas appearing vibrant and distinct. Red berries follow on a subtly softening and gentle nose, as a bit of a rubbery note develops. Returning after a sip, much more cherry, raisin, prune, apple, and pear dominate the nosing experience. It’s distinctly creamy, too, subtle lemon buttercream frosting. Late in the glass, it falls off slightly as more classic rye notes swing in with ground cinnamon, likely well past its due date. Redemption comes swiftly; just when you thought this glass was done, sweet bubblegum notes crop up to lull you back into comfort. The empty glass smells of pear skins, plum, dusty barn floors, and moist hay.


Palate: The glass begins creamy and sweet with cherry cordial and oodles of vanilla, yet also slightly chalky and eclectic, with a flash of oregano and sweet peppers. The mouthfeel is on the thicker end, with an oily new-make character like you might find on a single malt Scotch. The finish is long, with vegetal flavors like stewed cherry tomatoes. Subsequent sips usher in raisins, dark chocolate, and dried fruit. At last sip, we find a soft mouthfeel with saturated old oak, honey, and butterscotch. There's something hanging around reminiscent of a well-worn, soft leather jacket.


Further Thoughts: This is so incredibly well-preserved for 1902 whiskey. It's vibrant, bright, flavorful, and not the least bit tainted by its age. This was a true honor to properly taste whiskey from this era as we continued to sip through history. Gregory Cloyd brought this bottle and was not shy about telling folks he had no intention of taking any liquid home. Given the astounding quality of this rye, Nick was asked most frequently for a re-pour from this bottle throughout the night. What this pour highlighted most for us was that the Maryland style of rye is notably more fruit-forward than what we are used to tasting out of pre-prohibition ryes from Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Kentucky. This was one of the standout pours from the lineup. At the time of tasting, the proof was measured at 45% ABV.


 

~1910 to ~1915 Mount Vernon Pure Rye Whiskey


1910 Distilled Mount Vernon Pure Rye Whiskey bottled by Cook & Bernheimer Co, New York Distilled by Hannis Distilling Company


Bottle Information: Produced some time around 1910, bottled between 1914 and 1917, given The Cook & Bernheimer Company and Hannis Distillery ceased operations in 1917. Given tasters guessed at a 5 or 6 year age statement, our best guess is 1910 production and 1915 bottling, though this is just well-educated speculation. The foil cap with a metal twist wire carrying a medallion obviously also suggests the bottling date is pre-prohibition, which is confirmed by the lack of new labeling, of course. The metal medallion provided authenticity, branding, and tamper evidence, something that was coming to the forefront of producers minds as the threat of Prohibition loomed. There was another example of a similar bottling that Curt Kolcun brought that had a wax closure over the cork without any mention of Cook & Bernheimer, suggesting a 1917 or later bottling. We explored the bottle pictured.


Nose: Vibrant and lively, like soda fizzing after being freshly poured into a glass filled with clear ice. There’s pine, lemon, and a surprise savory cheese note that everyone nerded out over. It's vanilla sweet beyond belief, almost leading one to believe it could be a bourbon. Balls of peppercorn rolling off a kitchen counter, fresh stone fruit oozing, saturating an oak cutting board, and lemon zest aromas follow on deep inhales. Black forest cake and raspberry tart are notable additions to a wonderful array of smells. This is the nose that Nick hilariously said smells similar to how his fingers do after zesting no less than 40 lemons for a batch of limoncello. Returning to the nose after a sip brings in toffee and butterscotch, as well as earthen tones like freshly cut grass and rain-sprinkled dirt. The empty glen smells like a vintage clothing store and forest fruit pastilles.


Palate: Wow, the red berries are all up front! Raspberry and cherry chocolate tart with a buttery, crumbly crust, black pepper, and stone fruit lead the way. We found prune to be distinct on this one, though some of the undertones are vaguely minty. The mouthfeel is fresh, vibrant, and utterly inviting. Further sips bring in buttercream frosting, raisins, and milk chocolate, reminding us of a week-old tin of fruitcake. There’s an intriguing sourdough note that comes in after a sip. During our tasting, Nick inexplicably exclaimed, “This tastes like lead poisoning.” He was referring to how deadly sweet it drank. Late in the glass tastes of lemon cake, Boston cream doughnuts, slivered almonds, pecan pie, and a dusting of nutmeg. The finish is medium with no identifiable faults as buttercream frosting and pear liqueur continue to wash over the taste buds.


Further Thoughts: This is notably different from the 1902 example we previously tasted, though the butterscotch and fruit tones on the nose were slightly similar. It's a vibrant example of the Maryland style, and not one we'll be soon to forget.

 

1913 to 1920 Bottled in Bond Rye Whiskey


Fall 1913 Distilled Bottled in Bond Rye Whiskey Produced by Hannis Distilling Company Distillery No. 1 District Martinsburg, West Virginia


Bottle Information: Made in the fall of 1913 and bottled in 1920. The bottling date is deduced by the fact that this bottle was re-labeled to conform with the bottled in bond act provisions. This bottle is a product of Hannis' second distillery in West Virginia, which opened several years after the Baltimore distillery. This location got Registered Distillery No. 1 for the whiskey that was produced in Martinsburg, West Virginia. Notably, this location would have ceased production in July of 1914 when West Virginia's self-enacted prohibition via the "Yost Law" came into effect. This production run was perhaps one of their last hurrahs.


Nose: The glass doesn't lead with much, like trying to listen to music that's on mute, except for one loud and clear note: alcohol. After warming the glencairn with cupped hands and patience, the slightest of aromas begin to waft hesitantly out of the glass. Anise, watered-down lemon juice, wet wool, and a touch of mustiness, like old shoes in the summertime, are all present in the glass. For as long as it took to elicit such aromas, there's a severely subdued eagerness to taste, but sip we shall!


Palate: Hints of mothball, rinds from lime, and dredges left in a cast iron skillet long overdue to be cleaned and seasoned lead on the tongue. Cherry juice is there if you search for it, but it favors more of an aluminum can taste than anything fresh. There is a definite funk to this palate, which isn't off-putting per se, but hard to reconcile against the two previous pours.


Further Thoughts: Even when a bottle doesn't knock our socks off, there is always something to discover and appreciate. Alan Bishop offered a brilliant note on what he identified as a water fault on this pour, a phenomenon called geosmin: a chemical compound that is produced by soil bacteria. It's akin to when limestone puddles run dry and leave behind that whitish residue. We love learning from the best. Whether it was geosmin or just rushed distilling practices, this pour was certainly not a standout of the night.


 

1921 to 1933 Bottled in Bond Gwynnbrook Mount Vernon Brand Straight Rye Whiskey


Spring 1921 Distilled Mount Vernon Brand Straight Rye Whiskey Distilled by Gwynnbrook Company, Gwynbrook, MD - Bottled in bond by The American Medicinal Spirits Co / Distributed by National Distillers Products Corp


Bottle Information: Made in the spring of 1921, bottled in the fall of 1933. This is the classic square bottle, reimagined by National Distillers, the new face for American Medicinal Spirits Company, at the tail end of prohibition. Notably, this is not distilled by the same Hannis Distilling Company from the previous bottlings but an introduction to another Maryland distillery called Gwynnbrook, RD #33. Given this is a prohibition-produced bottle, the whiskey was moved to and stored at the Baltimore Distilling Co. in concentration warehouse number 27 in Maryland. It was released just before the 21st Constitutional amendment repealed the 18th amendment of prohibition.


Nose: My goodness, that is a truly exquisite nose. Vibrant and creamy, elegant yet punchy. This pour leads with sweet waffles with no further accoutrements, espresso-soaked ladyfingers, and roasted cashews. Boozy cherry cordial and black forest cake make for a sultry inhale. This is a crème brûlée prepared in a cast iron skillet. It gives off a distinct sweet and oily characteristic. Lemon custard, soft caraway, and the slightest hint of anise tantalize the senses. We loved this nose, spending many fervent moments nestling the nostrils above the liquid gold in our glasses. Returning to the glass after a few sips brought in more sweetness, butterscotch, apple crisp dessert, rum cake crumbs, and bubbling brown sugar in melted butter. The empty glass smells like dried flowers, honey mixed in with chamomile tea, and the floor mats in a classic car.


Palate: From the first sip, attention is demanded by this glass. Leather, buttered parsnips, brown sugar, and graham cracker undulate powerfully. What a lovely mouthfeel, creamy dulce de leche with reserved black pepper. Much like the nose, a touch of caraway gives this excellent depth and complexity. We found thick-sliced spiced cake, amaretto, and milk chocolate ganache on subsequent sips. The oak is soft, not overly spice-forward, and it balances wonderfully with the sweeter dessert notes. Rounding out the pour was a lesson in consistency, and little complaint could be heard from our revered tasters. Graham cracker, leather, and lovely ganache tones lingered long on this impressionable pour.


Further Thoughts: This is one of the clear stand-out pours of the evening, delivering a perfect ensemble of flavor, heft, and a clear indication of what Mount Vernon rye would have tasted like during this era. The bottle was impeccably preserved with plenty of liquid to go around, and it is probably the bottle that we'll be hunting for as a result of this tasting. I know we're shooting ourselves in the foot a little with this admission, but we're feeling charitable. It's diverse in character yet so distinct. Unique, yet completely telling. It's an unexpected invitation to an event you will hold dear for the rest of your life.


 

1921 to 1931 Bottled in Bond Mount Vernon Pure Rye Whiskey


Spring 1921 Distilled Bottled in Bond Mount Vernon Pure Rye Whiskey Distilled by Gwynnbrook Co. Distillery 33 District of Maryland


Bottle Information: In a comparative tasting to the previous bottle, this pint-size offering was also distilled by Gwynnbrook Distilling Co. in the spring of 1921 but bottled in 1931 by American Medicinal Spirits. Notably, this is also not from Hannis Distillery, but from Gwynnbrook, which was one of the few distilleries producing medicinal whiskey between 1919 and 1922. This is one bottling that can be speculated on further with disingenuous whiskey producers using all kinds of falsified names. Given this is 1921 distilled, it is likely one of the only examples of true Gwynnbrook distillate, something that Laura Fields covers well in her write-up. Chicanery aside, this bottle is a lovely representation of how whiskey packaging looked like during Prohibition, with the box featuring an opening where medicinal prescription labels could be affixed to the bottle through.


Nose: Oh goodness. The recoil upon first smelling this dram is likely cartoon-worthy. This is an ashtray left on a patio table during an evening in the early 1990s when smoking was the thing to do, and it's filled with rainwater from an overnight storm. A substantial amount of air and time provides a few additional notes: a can of cherry cola that has been opened for days and even wet cardboard boxes left on a snowy front porch.


Palate: The hallmark of a poorly preserved bottle greets the tongue upon the first sip: mothballs. Jes spittooned this immediately upon recognizing this tainted whiskey note. Nick was more generous in his efforts. Both agreed the sip did not evolve much after returning to it for a second and third go. Unfortunately, this pour did not land very well compared to the previous Gwynnbrook pour, likely mostly due to less-than-ideal storage conditions in the many years since bottling.


Further Thoughts: Sharing rare dusty bottles with well-calibrated palates often offers a broader perspective and experience. Alan Bishop found rubbing alcohol, which he mused was a possible result of operational practices at the time. Perhaps it's the addition of neutral grain spirits, or a result of rookie distillers running the stills, but this whiskey was shown to be clearly flawed to all in attendance.


 

1935 to 1941 Bottled in Bond Mount Vernon Straight Rye Whiskey


Spring 1935 Distilled Bottled in Bond Mount Vernon Straight Rye Whiskey Mount Vernon Brand Straight Rye Whiskey Distilled by the Hannis Distillery Company, Bottled by National Distillers Products Corporation, Baltimore, Maryland


Bottle Information: This bottled in bond Mount Vernon straight rye whiskey was distilled in spring of 1935 by Hannis Distillery Co. and bottled in spring of 1941. It's another example of the iconic square bottle, this time during the post-prohibition era and bottled by National Distillers Products Co. What is notable here in respect to whiskey producers giving misdirection is the inclusion of The Hannis Distillery Company on the label... we know from our timeline above that this company no longer existed. While it's possible that these could have been holdover stocks left in concentration warehouses from many years prior, it's highly unlikely. It was at the time of bottling that the "Hannis Distilling Corporation" was re-incorporated with an office in Wilmington, Delaware.


Nose: A wildly different experience than the previous example from a similar-looking bottle. The nose is fruity and funky. Nostalgic 80s cereal dominates with stale Fruit Loops and overly sweet Apple Jacks. Notes of fig newtons, a hit-or-miss package in the desert aisle, are also present on the palate. We finally settled on this pour being a miss with notes of cheesy feet developing late in the glass.


Palate: The funk on the nose turned fizz on the palate with bubbly notes of rosé wine and mineral water. It's distinctly sweet, like dipstick candy, a commonality from nose to palate that is surprisingly appreciated by the ATW team, despite there being some apparent flaws throughout. Raspberry popsicles round out the tasting experience, leaving an aftertaste of all popsicle sticks and barely any raspberry, a source of acute pain to several tasters.


Further Thoughts: An abundantly tannic and funky experience. The unfortunate dichotomy between the lovely pre-1910 example and this one is stark. This is why history cannot only be read when it comes to whiskey but also needs to be tasted, analyzed, and exposed. It's why we take the time to intentionally taste, patiently and with pen and paper.


 

1937 to 1941 BPR Bottled in Bond Maryland Straight Rye Whiskey


Fall 1937 Distilled BPR Bottled in Bond Maryland Straight Rye Whiskey Distilled by The Baltimore Pure Rye Distilling Co.


Bottle Information: Bottled in spring 1941, this four year bottled in bond pure rye whiskey was distilled at the Baltimore Pure Rye Distilling Co. (BPR) in Dundalk, Maryland, in 1937. This is an example of a distillery's return to making pre-prohibition rye whiskey after the end of prohibition. This has no physical connection to any of the previous bottlings other than the relative proximity to the Maryland style. Its inclusion is due in part to the reputation for extraordinary quality that whiskey in this era produced. A 1941 ad called BPR rye "the most famous whiskey state's most famous whiskey."


Nose: Cinnamon red hots and Big Red chewing gum lead the way, a one-noted soprano singing loud in a forgotten choir of would-be talent. This is predominantly all cinnamon with wisps of OGD114 memories. We found peanuts in wax paper at an old-time baseball game. Kind of sleepy, like baseball can be at times. Nick found Old Spice deodorant, medicinal sweets, cherry cordials, and balanced, creamy cake tones.


Palate: The cinnamon runs straight to the tongue with a cough syrup and chemical-like quality. The mouthfeel is slightly synthetic. Additional sips hint at what once could have been a shimmering note: vanilla bean ice cream and bubbly cream soda. Quickly, though, anise swings in, a gentle reminder that this whiskey is old. Cardamom. The finish is flat, like a pearl necklace (nice one, Nick).


Further Thoughts: While this expression did not land with high marks for us, it was revered by several other tasters. We, of course, felt more than fortunate to taste through the complicated history of a post-prohibition distillery attempting to resurrect pre-prohibition rye. We'd certainly love to sit down with William E. Kricker to see what distilling lessons could be gleaned for today's bustling whiskey scene.


 

1940 to 1947 BPR Bottled in Bond Maryland Straight Rye Whiskey


Spring 1940 Distilled BPR Bottled in Bond Maryland Straight Rye Whiskey Distilled by The Baltimore Pure Rye Distilling Co


Bottle Information: Made in spring 1940 and bottled in fall 1947, this is another example of a post-prohibition pure rye whiskey from Baltimore Pure Rye Distilling Co. Master Distiller at the time, William E. Kricker, has been largely credited for his positive contributions to the history of Maryland rye whiskey. This brand has recently been revitalized by Henry M. Wright & Co. using old MGP stocks.


Nose: The glass leads so warm, creamy, and inviting. It's a warm dinner roll loaded with honey butter. There's a notable bit of spice compared to the previous, earlier examples of Maryland whiskey. Further exploration reveals flaky croissant, butterscotch pudding, and a solid waffle cone loaded with salted caramel cookie dough ice cream. Nosing further, we smelled the wick of a vanilla candle and soft cooling wax, gentle cinnamon frosting for a sweet roll, cherry syrup, and butterscotch candies wrapped in that translucent yellow plastic. As the glass nears empty, some aromas of the oddly ubiquitously understood Flintstones vitamins crop up. The empty glass smells like thin Bible pages, weathered wood, and sultana raisins.


Palate: Woah... Sweet cherry, fresh strawberry, juicy red raspberry, buttercream frosting, and sugar cookie all lead the way on a light, lovely sip. The use of the term lightness is quickly deemed hasty by the lively linger as cherry cola, black pepper, and tingling swirls of nutmeg shimmer across the tongue. Another sip is remarkable, as maraschino cherry juice swings in distinctly alongside a healthy dose of barrel funk. Underlying characteristics that play a supporting role in the experience: raisin, prune, blackberry, and Haribo gummy bears. At last taste, we find dry cinnamon stick, walnut, and mulberry. The finish is the same vibrant spice that has been ever-present throughout the glass with a final kiss of leather.


Further Thoughts: This is a nuanced, distinct, and deep character-driven whiskey. It stands on its own, not needing the rest of the tasting as an introduction, though it certainly didn't suck to hear the whole chorus singing. Laura Fields called this one a "quintessential representation of post-Prohibition, bottled-in-bond Maryland rye whiskey." This pour was a bit of a toss-up between the Amongst the Whiskey tasters; Nick loved this pour, noting it was the only one of the night that made his hair stand on end, but Jes thought it perhaps suffered either in comparison to the rest of the lineup or from palate fatigue at the tail end of an exquisite tasting.



 

Final Thoughts: What Makes Maryland Rye Unique?


So what made Maryland rye so different? One notable finding from this tasting was that this style of production produced a much sweeter rye than we were used to in comparison to the likes of old Monongahela ryes. Cherry-forward tones almost call out to a modern bourbon profile, but it's significantly deeper than that. Creamy tones were also prevalent throughout, something the Amongst the Whiskey team reveres on a good old, oily mouthfeel.


One significant factor to consider is mash bill. We know George Washington used a 60% rye, 35% corn, and 5% barley mash bill. While the Hannis Distilling mash bill for Mount Vernon rye has never been found or disclosed to our knowledge, it's possible he emulated it after George Washington's recipe; the lower rye content would be congruent with the slightly softer profile the Hannis examples had in comparison to the BPR bottlings. Baltimore Pure Rye actively advertised their mash bill, citing a 98% rye makeup consisting of 80% raw rye grain, 18% malted rye, and 2% malted barley.


Another factor is the possible use of additives. There were several pours that tasted like they could have possibly had fruit juices blended with them. Search back for pours that contained "prune" in the tasting notes, and tell us if you think this is a real possibility.


While all of the producers we explored had high points that were discovered as part of this tasting, it should be noted that older does not always mean better. The distilleries that Hannis ramped up in Maryland & West Virginia were purchased to meet production demands. National Distillers were likely just excited to reuse a marketable name. It's likely that all kinds of shenanigans were ongoing throughout this time, not much unlike what we are seeing today in the covid-era whiskey boom that seems to be ramping back down. A high point from the tasting was learning about Kricker's efforts to revitalize the pre-prohibition whiskey style in Baltimore. If only more had followed in his footsteps... The early style of Maryland rye production is an exquisite piece of distilling history, as was the post-prohibition efforts with BPR. Despite these high points, the authors find themselves slightly preferring the Pennsylvania style rye and Kentucky bourbon that was being produced in similar times when examining the National Distillers example. We hope you've enjoyed this thorough examination of Maryland rye and would consider adding your own thoughts and knowledge down in the comment section if so!


 

References & Sources:



 

Written by: The Amongst the Whiskey Team


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Amongst the Whiskey Author Team: Nick Anderson and Jes Smyth
 

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