If you look on the inside of your bottle of 2024 William Larue Weller, you will notice the vintage portrait of a fine Kentucky gentleman. That's William Larue Weller himself, the man who inspired the bourbon namesake you still see today. The story is much richer than just what is told through this blend of 12-14 year wheated bourbon from Buffalo Trace, though, and we can turn to wonderful resources like Whiskey University to achieve a deeper understanding of the Kentucky legend who invented a whole new category of bourbon.
Often credited with being the first to use wheat in place of rye in his bourbon mash bill, William Larue Weller's story is deeper and more reverent than a simple marketing slogan such as "Honest whiskey at an honest price." This was the message that William, now a veteran of the Mexican War by this time, used in his first whiskey business venture he endeavored on with his brother Charles. Located on 8th Street between Jefferson and Liberty, William Larue Weller & Brother would later become W.L. Weller & Sons as William built a family with his wife, Sarah B. Pence. The Wellers would purchase whiskey on the open market and even contracted large lots from distilleries like the Stitzel Brothers in Louisville and the Old Joe Distillery in Anderson County. You may recognize some of the brands they put out still today because of the reputation these whiskeys carried for quality. Preserved bottles of Mammoth Cave and Cabin Still are still highly sought after by collectors, drinkers, and afficionados far and wide. They were expert marketers and advertisers but ultimately built their reputation on quality.
One of the more notable moments in William's business history was employing the 19 year old Julian "Pappy" Van Winkle as a salesman. With some sage advice from a long career in the whiskey world, William slowly tapered off his involvement in the business, leaving his two sons George and William Junior as partners in his stead. With John and Lee Weller also employed by the business, and Julian Van Winkle in loyal service of their vested interests, William retired in 1896. His retirement was fairly short lived, when he ultimately died in 1899 as a result of heart complications related to an asthma condition. He is buried in Louisville's Cave Hill Cemetery, the final resting place of many of Kentucky's famous whiskey barons that built the state into the bourbon capital of the world.
Today, Buffalo Trace honors this rich history by keeping William Larue Weller as their namesake for their once-a-year Buffalo Trace Antique Collection. Their other wheated bourbon offerings that are available throughout the year include: Weller Special Reserve, Weller Antique 107, Weller Full Proof, Weller 12 Year, Weller C.Y.P.B. and Weller Single Barrel. Ready to find out if the 2024 William Larue Weller release is worth hunting for? Let's dive in for a full review!
Company on Label: Buffalo Trace Distillery, Frankfort, KY
Whiskey Type: Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey
Mash Bill Percentages: Undisclosed wheated mash bill
Proof: 125.8°
Age: 12 years and 6 months (a blend of 12-14 year old barrels)
MSRP: $150
Further identification: The 2024 release of William Larue Weller is detailed in their yearly release letter:
Nose: Upon first lifting the glass to my nose, I find the rich, old, funky barrel proof whiskey that we've come to know and love from Buffalo Trace. It leads with molasses, prune juice, coffee cake, and heavy leather aromas that tantalize and excite. Black tea tones proliferate after a long rest. As deep inhales continue to plunder the depths of the whiskey, I'm reminded of some fantastic allspice dram cocktails I've had the pleasure of tasting. Overall, this leans in on the darker wood influence tones: think molasses, maple syrup, brown sugar, and tons of leather. Black pepper and flashes of cherry cordial build up a powerful foundation for this pour.
Returning to the nose after a few sips reveals a touch of ground wheat, stonework laced with climbing vines, and oodles of caramel. I'm continuously surprised by potent new complexities like vanilla extract and slivered almonds as I sit patiently with my pour. Late in the glass, I find a kiss of burrata amongst the continuous wood and fruit tones. The empty glass smells of well-made Kentucky bourbon, which I assure you, is resolute praise.
Palate: On first sip, I'm immediately impressed by a fruit-forward, viscous mouth coating that instantly has me salivating. Cherry cordial dominates up front before eggnog pie and gingersnaps plaster in a sugary sweet dessert vibe. Another quick sip reveals some hefty but balanced age as earthy clay tones, brown sugar, and bountiful level oak bounce around the mouth. The feeling is that of thick, rich quality, reminiscent of a bygone era of traditionally lower barrel entry proofs. As I continue to work through the glass, a lovely evolution occurs as the profile transitions from the dark wood tones and the sugary bits to a delicate and bright floral scene. I love this kind of experience. I find myself walking through a greenhouse full of potted plants. I'm slowly nibbling on a scone as I bask in the warm sunlight filtering through fronds and foliage. The linger is incredibly long here, delivering fruit in spades. I find strawberry to be in the greatest abundance, as raspberry and pear follow close behind. My last taste is solidly satisfying, as the rest of this glass was, as strawberry parfait tones slowly ooze across my taste buds in the patient, delicate, and prolonged finish.
TL;DR: A solidly delicious Kentucky straight bourbon that edges out most of the proximal releases
Rating: 4/5
This is the kind of whiskey you pull out for your friends when they come to visit you. It excites the palate and transports the patient observer right to the middle of a Kentucky rick house. Is this profile unmatchable, or the pinnacle of whiskey royalty? No, and I'm not sure it was trying to be when you look at how good this year's George T. Stagg release was. The wheated mash bill feels a bit washed out in all the barrel influence from this 12-14 year old barrel blend. I wish the spec sheet was a little more transparent personally, but it's a small qualm for a delicious bourbon despite how unreasonably hard it is to get for most people. If you're one of the small subset of folks with a bottle in hand, I hope this review has convinced you to open and enjoy it!
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