The ImpEx bottlings coming out of their 4th edition feature many different producers. Today's sample brings Benrinnes to the stage. This Speyside distillery, built in 1826, is pretty much smack dab in the middle of the region, producing very little in the way of single malts. Typically this distillate is destined for blends like Johnny Walker and J&B blended whisky. To further add to the mystique, the release under exploration today comes just a few years after a pretty drastic simplification of their distillation process that occurred in 2007. Diageo has put out one Flora and Fauna series using Benrinnes, but few people have been able to assign a distinct character to the malt whisky producer to this day. Perhaps I'll be the first! Let's jump into a quick review of a small sample the brand shared with me. I'd like to thank ImpEx for both the pictures provided as well as the media sample for review with no strings attached.
Company on Label: The ImpEx Collection (Distilled at Benrinnes Distillery)
Whisky Type: Single malt Scotch whisky
Mash Bill Percentages: 100% malted barley
Proof: 117.8°
Age: 12 years
Further identification: This single malt was selected by Sam Filmus for the ImpEx Collection, bottled at cask strength after aging for 12 years in a hogshead; cask number 306532 was distilled and filled June 9th, 2011, bottled March 5th, 2023, and it yielded 273 bottles, available now at an MSRP of $125
Nose: On first whiff, I find a very subtle character that presents slightly savory, like a bit of barbecue rub left spilled on the counter. Deeper inhales show off a bit of medicinal cherry and sulfur cream, which is a bit odd for me, but I'm sure many malt heads will nod along with relevant experiences in mind. After a few sips, the nose brings forth earthy, well-seasoned oak, a welcome change of pace from the rest of the glass. It's like an armload of firewood in the dead of winter—cold now, but you know it will bring you warmth soon. The empty glass smells of old paint and rosemary-rubbed pork.
Palate: As liquid hits lips, I find the palate to be just as vague as the nose. Deviled eggs, light buttercream frosting, and apple skins land strangely on the tongue. The linger carries a dull cinnamon applesauce. Another sip and swish shakes out fresh linens and cotton swabs. Each sip is noticeably boozy. My last taste produces sour lemon tang, basil, and sorghum. The glass finishes slightly bitter and flat with a linger that I'd prefer to pass.
TL;DR: Flat whisky full of odd flavors and aromas
Rating: 3/5
Despite setting out to try to discover the underlying character of Benrinnes, I've only become befuddled. While it's not a bad whisky by any stretch of the imagination, it lacks the definition required to be an exciting sip for me. Perhaps Benrinnes is destined to always be a blending component. I'd love to know if you've had a compelling single cask bottling of Benrinnes, something that has really impressed you. Drop me a comment; I'd love to hear about it.
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