The ImpEx Collection is in its 4th edition, collecting single casks from distilleries around Scotland, hand-selected by Sam Filmus. Ranging into the top end of the age statements from this run, this 14 year Strathmill malt is one Speyside distillery that I have not had the good fortune of exploring as of yet. The original Strathmill distillery site was first founded as a corn mill that was later converted into a distillery in 1891, originally called Glenisla-Glenlivet. The current name is derived from the Gaelic word Strath, meaning "shadow valley," and mill, you can imagine, from its former purpose.
Fast forward to today, Diageo typically uses Strathmill distillate for J&B blended whisky, though you'll certainly find plenty of independent bottlings of this oily-character whisky. The only official release you'll find is from Diageo's Flora & Fauna range. I'm always glad to explore a new non-peated malt, so let's dive into a quick review. Given I am only tasting one ounce of this release, it should be noted that my flash reviews are not as thorough as my full reviews. I'd like to thank ImpEx for both the pictures provided and the media sample for review. Let's get to it!
Company on Label: The ImpEx Collection (Distilled at Strathmill Distillery)
Whisky Type: Single malt Scotch whisky
Mash Bill Percentages: 100% malted barley
Proof: 115°
Age: 14 years
Further identification: This single malt was selected by Sam Filmus for the ImpEx Collection, bottled at cask strength after aging for 14 years in a hogshead; cask number 802952 was distilled and filled April 21, 2009, bottled March 5, 2024, and it yielded 272 bottles, available now at an MSRP of $149.99
Nose: Upon lifting the well-rested glass to my nose, I find a light fruitiness that whispers balance and grace. Aromas of strawberry shortcake, fruity pebbles, and light, fizzy grape soda all dance wonderfully in the airways before my brain. My mind reacts viscerally; I like that. It's light and fun, though I almost get the undertones of some cedar influence, even though I know Strathmill uses a shell and tube condenser. Raspberry compote, pink peppercorn, grapefruit, and tajin ebb and flow in balanced potency. Returning from a sip shows an array of aromas that have suddenly developed some age. Your typical wood spice aromas of allspice and black pepper are subtle, leathery, and woven together with a soft creaminess. The dram is quickly losing steam with time in the glass and deep inhales now, and what comes with it is the sad realization that there can't be light and beauty without darkness and decay. Subtle creaminess continues late into the 7th inning. The empty glass smells of sweet tarts, juicy Granny Smith apple, and light honey.
Palate: My goodness, that fruity character is just wonderful on the tongue, just as it was in the nose. Ruby red grapefruit, fig, guava, and boysenberry all come together perfectly here. Another sip and swish elevates sugar cookie tones as well as strawberries served over ladyfingers with whipped cream and granulated sugar on top. This is absolutely lovely, but not overly impassioned as some truly wow-worthy whiskies can be. Sipping late in the glass offers the same shimmering sugar cookie tone from earlier in a consistent and robust delivery. Though some of the magical moments of the glass have moved on, what remains is a solid sip of oily whisky that comes across like a mouthful of buttered croissant. Gone is the fruit. Gone is the spice. I'm still quite content, but my excitement is on ice. As my glass runs dry, I find a whisky fit for many occasions, with an oily linger that fans of Irish whiskey will surely appreciate. The finish goes long—though it lacks a true flavor—the mouthfeel more than makes up for a lack of character. Sugar cookies loaded with buttercream frosting twinkle perpetually on the taste buds like the stars do in the sky.
TL;DR: Give your full attention to the start of this fruity dram before settling into a cream finish
Rating: 4.5/5
That was a wild ride—the kind of experience I adore in all things whisk(e)y. The fall off at the end makes me a bit worried about what might happen with long term oxidation of a patiently-enjoyed full bottle, but I might just take that risk with how delicious this presented early on.
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