This Kirkwall, Orkney distillery in Scotland harkens back to 1798 as the second northernmost distillery of the country. Built by the Scottish priest turned whisky smuggler, Magnus Eunson, the site would operate illicitly until 1826, at which time they received an official license to distill whisky.
Single malt fans have long searched hard for any example of this distillate they can find. The first single malts were released in the 1970s, and the distillery has become known for its use of local Orcadian peat to dry the barley, which is lighter than mainland or Islay peat, and they almost exclusively utilize much-beloved sherry casks for maturation. The bottle under review was missing the hanging neck tag that typically came with the bottle, so we thought this was a 1956 bottling, but it looks like there was only a 20 year green dumpy bottling from that year. Therefore, this must be the 1959 distilled example that was bottled in 1980. I love when a good mystery can be closed with a little research. I had the wonderful opportunity to taste this alongside an all-star lineup of Highland Park bottlings at a Whisky Legends tasting hosted by my dear friend Alden Hart.
Company on Label: James Grant & Company (Highland Park Distillery)
Whiskey Type: Malt Scotch Whisky
Mash Bill Percentages: 100% malted barley
Proof: 86°
Age: 21 year
Further identification: This is an official bottling of Highland Park bottled for the Italian importer Ferraretto, which was then redistributed to the Japanese market in the 1980s; today this highly regarded bottle fetches hefty prices at auction
Nose: Salt water taffy leads the way as I slowly lift the glass to my nose. Salted caramel, rich, oiled leather, and crème brûlée aromas are present throughout. It's a comfortable dram that wraps you up in a big comforter ladened with floral tones it picked up from hanging out on the clothesline for an extended period of time. The left nostril finds soft white pepper while the right side picks up more of that eggnog taffy. Bringing both back together reveals an enjoyable aroma of dryer sheets. It reminds me deeply of a pre-prohibition distilled Schenley sardine can I tasted previously. Deep inhales produce notes of vanilla panna cotta, black pepper, blackberry compote, and a fatty glass of raw milk. leather remains dominant throughout as subtleties of raisin develop well. It's high time for a sip.
After a sip, the heather and buttery characteristics are amplified drastically. There is zero evidence of peat to my nose. This is a creamy dram. Read the runes, and you'll find mountain stone, stardust, and crisp pear late in the glass. Deep inhales offer the smell of struck flint and a small flicker of flame beginning to smoke under tinder and a teepee of resinous fatwood. The empty glass smells like cedar shakes and wet acrylic paint on canvas.
Palate: My first sip is bold and beautiful, with black pepper crashing in on a big wave of Firehook sea salt crackers. Another sip reveals delicate ash and well-integrated oak tones reminiscent of three year seasoned firewood. It screams "winter is coming" as pure bliss washes over the observer. Raisin, plum, and focaccia bread are subtle undertones that widen the eyes. Exploring further, I find lavender, lemon tea, and thyme that embody the floral and woody tones of the dram well. My last sip reveals well steeped lavender tea at the bedside and buttered scones presented over thin doilies. The finish is medium with subtle beurre blanc, smoked salmon, and lemon rose undertones.
TL;DR: Fatty, floral, fantastically pretty whisky
Rating: 4.5/5
This is a very pretty example of an early Highland Park single malt. What shines in this glass is the approachability and fun surprises along the way. I was slowly transported to a deep, verdant forest filled with damp undergrowth, no challenge for an Eagle Scout to get a fire going. Compare this with some modern examples of Highland Park and you will have yourself a gorgeous tasting.
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